Dear Folks,
Here are the recipes I served on Sunday the 10th -- The wonderful Annual Herb Festival was rained out on Saturday, but I still had all that food . . .
For more recipe ideas using herbs check out my publishers site for the recipe book "101+ Recipes From The Herb Lady" available in both print and ebook formats. The books are also available at the BTA gift shop.
A final word about my recipes - treat them as a guide not a bible. Make them yours and your family will talk about them for years :-)
. . .
All the herbs used the day of the BTA event were picked from my garden fresh for preparation. You can used dried - decrease the amount of herbs when using dried instead of fresh by about 2/3rds. Dried have more intense flavor. While dried will work with the turkey recipe, instead of mixing the dried into the ‘fat’ spread the turkey with the fat first, then sprinkle the crushed and mixed dried herb mixture all over, gently pat in to make sure they don’t fall off. The dried would not work well with the Tabouleh - it requires fresh herbs and dried parsley is not a good version of this always available herb.
Herb Crusted Turkey
Use this same type of herb-crust on any roast-type meat*
8 pound turkey breast (butterfly the bird by cutting through the backbone to open up the cooking surface)
2 tablespoons of butter - softened
2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon Kosher or other coarse salt (you can omit the salt if you prefer
2 cups of mixed herbs of choice, rinse well, small stems okay with leaves and flowers (I used rosemary, parsley, thyme, conehead thyme, and green (young fresh) garlic)
FAST HERB PREPARATION: In a blender place the herbs and enough water to cover the herbs by about 2 inches. Blend on high for 10-15 seconds - immediately drain in fine mesh strainer. Keep the drained herb-enriched water for making soup from the turkey leftovers!
While the herbs are draining, place the turkey in a roasting pan. If you like, instead of using a rack, you can make a rack of thick sliced onion, carrots and celery to act a bed. They additionally flavor to the great broth/stock you can make from the leftovers (keep the drained herb water in mind for this also).
In a bowl place the softened butter and oil and mix together very well. Add salt if using and make sure you get it thoroughly blended into the fat mixture. Now add the drained herbs and mix the fat completely through the herbs - you want a paste.
Pat the herb paste over the entire top of the meat. Try to get as much covered as possible. The purpose is to both flavor the meat and keep it moist.
Place on grill with indirect heat, covered. This 8 pounder took an hour and 3/4 to grill. In the oven set temperature at 350 and check for temperature (or popup) at 1 and half hours.
Let the meat sit for 10-15 minutes before carving.
* Tofu Bars (very a firm tofu block into approximately 4-5 - 1/2 inch thick pieces) can be grilled, pan friend or roasted with this herb paste.
Quinoa/Barley Tabouleh
Traditional tabouleh is made with bulgar wheat, cracker or whole. I like to mix and match grains for different taboulehs and this one is high in protein and fiber.
DRESSING:
Zest and juice 1 lemon (or 2) to get about 1/4 cup of juice
equal amount of olive oil
half a teaspoon of salt (you always need a bit of salt with grains)
2 cups each loosely packed parsley and spearmint leaves - can use tender stems.
Optional: 2 scallions very finely slivered; 1 spring of oregano leaves only.
Mix juice, oil and salt, shake well in a small jar and set aside.
Grind all the herbs as noted above in the turkey recipe for fast grinding. OR, very finely mince all herbs. Set aside.
GRAINS:
1 cup of barley
1 cup of quinoa (rinse well in cold water and allow to drain)
Bring 4 and a half cups of salted water to boil. Add barley, stir, reduce heat, cover and cook barley for 28 minutes. Add quinoa, stir, recover and cook for 12 minutes longer. Add additional hot water if the grains are getting too dry before finishing. The water should all be absorbed by the end of 40 minutes. Remove from heat. Let sit for 5 minutes. Stir about a tablespoon of olive oil into the hot grains to keep them from sticking together. You can dress the grains while hot, but I like to allow them to cool completely - takes about 35 minutes, fluffing occasionally. Spread the drained herbs on top of the grains. Give the dressing a good shake and pour over and gently fold in the herbs and dressing with the grains.
Serve and enjoy this complete meal with a glass of apple juice with a sprig of spearmint to give sparkle to the juice
Marinated Olives & Artichoke Hearts
I don’t know anyone who does not enjoy the marinated artichoke hearts sold in stores – and they are really good for you too, if you can control the ingredients. Ditto with olives.
While I don’t have my own olive trees for curing my own (wish I had the room), you have many choices for finding whichever olives you enjoy for this recipe. When invited to a party, I am often asked to ‘bring the olives you make.’
For the BTA event, I began with a half gallon of olives, and a package of frozen artichoke quarters,
21 oz jar of small spanish, pitted olives (can have pimento in them), drained.
2 12 oz jars of pitted kalamata olives drained, reserving only this olive liquid**
1 14 oz package of frozen artichoke hearts
1 lemon, zested and juiced
1 orange, zested and juiced
half to 1 cup of fresh herbs, finely minced - for this recipe I did not grind them in the blender technique (I used rosemary, parsley, thyme, and conehead thyme – in the past I have also used a bit of fresh ginger, and garlic is always an option)
Good quality extra virgin olive oil
There is plenty of salt in the olives
Finely mince the herbs on a board or plate, zest the citrus over the herbs to catch the essential oils that are always released. Squeeze the citrus juices together and set aside with the kalamata liquid.
Bring a pot of water to boil and cook the artichoke hearts for 5 minutes, drain immediately and let cool.
Fold the artichoke hearts and olives together in a container for marinating - I like to use a half gallon mason jar because I can cap it tightly for the shaking process.
Add the herbs to the olive mixture. Mix the citrus juices and the reserved kalamata liquids together an pour over the olives and herbs. Cap tightly and begin to turn the jar upside down and back again every 10-15 minutes to give them a good flavoring. Let them sit turning as stated for about an hour - it is okay if you let it sit for a couple of hours. Add the olive oil to cover completely, cap and turn a couple of times. If serving that day, you can leave them out at room temperature. If you need to refrigerate before serving, bring them out to sit at room temperature for an hour to soften the harden olive oil. Give them a couple of good turns and you are ready to serve a great appetizer.
Because of the acid and salt in this mixture they will keep for a couple of weeks. Just make sure the liquid is always covering the remaining olive/hearts. Add more olive oil if you need to.
** This brand of kalamata olives was packed in a wine and vinegar solution with some herbs, so I used that as part of the marinating liquid
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Monday, April 11, 2011
Lasagna - a Different Version
Dear Folks,
A note about the 'thrillin' grillin' substitute day yesterday at Boyce Thompson Arboretum (due to the Herb Festival being rained and colded out Saturday). If you didn't make it out folks, the turkey turned out awesome! I will post the recipes here in the next day or so.
. . .
I posted recipes for making ricotta and a unique reduction cheese several days ago, with the note that I made the ricotta for the vegetable lasagna I was making. Here is the lasagna and what I did to make it. Deane declared it has to be on the regular menu! He also observed that without actually intending to, the lasagna turned out gluten-free! Also low-carb.
First, why vegetables? I saw a reference to making a garden fresh lasagna replacing the noodles with vegetables like zucchini and we had - among other ingredients fresh asparagus from the garden. I had some russet potatoes, and picked up some zucchini from the store. I had fresh basil from the garden, "sauce tomatoes" from the farmers market, my fresh ricotta and my friend Kathy's mozzarella and I was almost set.
I spent a lot of time preparing the ingredients for this recipe, but you certainly do not have to. Pick up really quality ingredients at the farmers market or favorite store. In the future I'm going to can my sauce (we keep running out freezer space), so I have it ready to make this any time I want.
FYI - I did not have nearly enough cheese because I got overly generous with the veggies, but I made due.
For the sauce I adapted this sauce several years ago when I read about Marcella Hazan's "crasy sauce" famous for having only 3 ingredients. (Her recipe called for canned tomatoes removing the onion from the sauce at the end.)
SAUCE:
6 pounds of tomatoes (mix and match for different flavors - cut into quarters or half
1 stick of butter
1 onion, diced
Optional: 1 whole sprig of oregano; slivered basil added at the end.
Melt the butter in a good size sauce pan, add the onion, stir and add all the tomatoes and juice. Simmer for 2-3 hours, stirring occasionally. You will know when it is done. It reduces down to a thick sauce. That's it the most incredible sauce you will ever taste. This time I left my sauce whole, you can also puree at the end with an immersion blender.
MEAT - OPTIONAL
If you do not want to add meat, double the cheese. OR, you can add grilled or ungrilled tofu in place of the meat.
1 pound ground turkey
1 pound of natural milk Italian sausage meat
Mix the two meats together and brown in a large frying pan. Use a potato masher to keep them broken up. Set aside when browned.
Potatoes (2 good size)
Zucchini (3 good size)
Asparagus (8-10 - depending on the width/length of your pan you want enough for a row)
Cut potatoes into long planks (I leave the skins on) about a half inch thick. Cut zucchini into similar width planks (all length size). Trim hard ends off the asparagus by bending and snapping at the 'tender' point - save the hard ends for flavoring soups and broths.
CHEESES:
Ricotta - I had about 1 cup - I would double that
Mozzarella - I had about 2 cups shredded - I would add at least another 50%.
READY to assemble.
Have all ingredients ready: Sauce, ricotta, mozzarella, meat, vegetables, fresh basil (optional).
You are going to start and end with sauce, so make sure you divide it accordingly for 3 layers.
Place a thin layer on the bottom, layer the potatoes (I do not show that layer in the picture above, just imagine the large lasagna noodles and you will get the idea.). Place a layer of meat, top with ricotta, fresh basil slivers (put the basil on the meat, ricotta, or on the sauce - does not really matter), sauce and mozzarella. You have the first of three layers. Next arrange the asparagus in the opposite position (note picture), add layer of meat, top with ricotta, fresh basil, sauce and end with mozzarella. Repeat with the last layer of zucchini arranged end to end as pictured, layer meat, basil, ricotta and end with sauce and mozzarella.
Bake at 350 degrees for 30 to 60 minutes. The timing will depend on whether the sauce and meat were hot when you assembled the lasagna. If cold it will take longer. If you want to shorten the time, you can cook the potatoes in the microwave for about 4 minutes (don't forget to pierce the skin) and blanch the zucchini and asparagus for 2 minutes in boiling water. Then all the oven is doing is heating the sauce and melting the cheese. I left mine in for 45 minutes - I could have taken it out about 5 - 10 minutes sooner.
This recipe can be a lot of work, so make a big batch because not only does it keep well, but it actually gets better tasting in the frig over the next 2 or so days -- the initial feast is delicious!
Because I did not puree my sauce there was 'juice' a factor I did not mind, but you may wish a very thick sauce to proceed accordingly. We started calling it a "lasagna stew" - worked for us :-)
What vegetables do you have in the garden to make a vegetable lasagna? Think outside the noodle!
P.S. There is no reason not to combine noodles and vegetables. Lasagna is one of those recipes where you can be as creative as you want (purists please allow creativity in the kitchen - new / young cooks need all the encouragement they can get :-)
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
A note about the 'thrillin' grillin' substitute day yesterday at Boyce Thompson Arboretum (due to the Herb Festival being rained and colded out Saturday). If you didn't make it out folks, the turkey turned out awesome! I will post the recipes here in the next day or so.
. . .
I posted recipes for making ricotta and a unique reduction cheese several days ago, with the note that I made the ricotta for the vegetable lasagna I was making. Here is the lasagna and what I did to make it. Deane declared it has to be on the regular menu! He also observed that without actually intending to, the lasagna turned out gluten-free! Also low-carb.
First, why vegetables? I saw a reference to making a garden fresh lasagna replacing the noodles with vegetables like zucchini and we had - among other ingredients fresh asparagus from the garden. I had some russet potatoes, and picked up some zucchini from the store. I had fresh basil from the garden, "sauce tomatoes" from the farmers market, my fresh ricotta and my friend Kathy's mozzarella and I was almost set.
I spent a lot of time preparing the ingredients for this recipe, but you certainly do not have to. Pick up really quality ingredients at the farmers market or favorite store. In the future I'm going to can my sauce (we keep running out freezer space), so I have it ready to make this any time I want.FYI - I did not have nearly enough cheese because I got overly generous with the veggies, but I made due.
For the sauce I adapted this sauce several years ago when I read about Marcella Hazan's "crasy sauce" famous for having only 3 ingredients. (Her recipe called for canned tomatoes removing the onion from the sauce at the end.)
SAUCE:
6 pounds of tomatoes (mix and match for different flavors - cut into quarters or half
1 stick of butter
1 onion, diced
Optional: 1 whole sprig of oregano; slivered basil added at the end.
Melt the butter in a good size sauce pan, add the onion, stir and add all the tomatoes and juice. Simmer for 2-3 hours, stirring occasionally. You will know when it is done. It reduces down to a thick sauce. That's it the most incredible sauce you will ever taste. This time I left my sauce whole, you can also puree at the end with an immersion blender.
MEAT - OPTIONAL
If you do not want to add meat, double the cheese. OR, you can add grilled or ungrilled tofu in place of the meat.
1 pound ground turkey
1 pound of natural milk Italian sausage meat
Mix the two meats together and brown in a large frying pan. Use a potato masher to keep them broken up. Set aside when browned.
Potatoes (2 good size)
Zucchini (3 good size)
Asparagus (8-10 - depending on the width/length of your pan you want enough for a row)
Cut potatoes into long planks (I leave the skins on) about a half inch thick. Cut zucchini into similar width planks (all length size). Trim hard ends off the asparagus by bending and snapping at the 'tender' point - save the hard ends for flavoring soups and broths.
CHEESES:
Ricotta - I had about 1 cup - I would double that
Mozzarella - I had about 2 cups shredded - I would add at least another 50%.
READY to assemble.
Have all ingredients ready: Sauce, ricotta, mozzarella, meat, vegetables, fresh basil (optional).
You are going to start and end with sauce, so make sure you divide it accordingly for 3 layers.
Place a thin layer on the bottom, layer the potatoes (I do not show that layer in the picture above, just imagine the large lasagna noodles and you will get the idea.). Place a layer of meat, top with ricotta, fresh basil slivers (put the basil on the meat, ricotta, or on the sauce - does not really matter), sauce and mozzarella. You have the first of three layers. Next arrange the asparagus in the opposite position (note picture), add layer of meat, top with ricotta, fresh basil, sauce and end with mozzarella. Repeat with the last layer of zucchini arranged end to end as pictured, layer meat, basil, ricotta and end with sauce and mozzarella.
Bake at 350 degrees for 30 to 60 minutes. The timing will depend on whether the sauce and meat were hot when you assembled the lasagna. If cold it will take longer. If you want to shorten the time, you can cook the potatoes in the microwave for about 4 minutes (don't forget to pierce the skin) and blanch the zucchini and asparagus for 2 minutes in boiling water. Then all the oven is doing is heating the sauce and melting the cheese. I left mine in for 45 minutes - I could have taken it out about 5 - 10 minutes sooner.
This recipe can be a lot of work, so make a big batch because not only does it keep well, but it actually gets better tasting in the frig over the next 2 or so days -- the initial feast is delicious!
Because I did not puree my sauce there was 'juice' a factor I did not mind, but you may wish a very thick sauce to proceed accordingly. We started calling it a "lasagna stew" - worked for us :-)
What vegetables do you have in the garden to make a vegetable lasagna? Think outside the noodle!
P.S. There is no reason not to combine noodles and vegetables. Lasagna is one of those recipes where you can be as creative as you want (purists please allow creativity in the kitchen - new / young cooks need all the encouragement they can get :-)
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Saturday, April 09, 2011
Herb Festival Canceled Due to Rain - BUT ....
Dear Folks,
The Herb Festival scheduled for today at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum is canceled due to the rain BUT -- I am going to be doing the schedule 'thrillin' grillin' sampling of some of my specialties tomorrow (Sunday the 10th) at the BTA - sampling begins around noonish.
Still cool weather but supposed to be nice and sunny.
The BTA has many herb and other plants for sale, so come out.
http://ag.arizona.edu/bta/index.html
520.689.2723
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
The Herb Festival scheduled for today at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum is canceled due to the rain BUT -- I am going to be doing the schedule 'thrillin' grillin' sampling of some of my specialties tomorrow (Sunday the 10th) at the BTA - sampling begins around noonish.
Still cool weather but supposed to be nice and sunny.
The BTA has many herb and other plants for sale, so come out.
http://ag.arizona.edu/bta/index.html
520.689.2723
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Wednesday, April 06, 2011
Whey - Lots of Options!
Dear Folks,
I have made my own yogurt for a number of years. Last year I made a kind of Farmers (like cottage) cheese and last week I made a wonderful ricotta because I wanted to make a lasagna (next post will have the lasagna recipe and pictures), using some of our garden offerings, my ricotta and my friend Kathy's mozzarella, and using vegetables in place of the noodles.
Being one of those people who likes to either use up, recycle or find additional uses for things the thing you wind up with even with homemade yogurt and certainly ricotta is a lot of whey. Whey is opaque liquid left from cheese making and has protein, minerals, sugars (lactose) and some calories. If you are or know someone, who uses protein drinks made with whey powder, then you may be familiar with its nutrient qualities. In the past I have used my whey in baking - always a good choice but there are more options, including a unique cheese recipe I tripped across while researching more uses for whey.
Below I give you the recipe for the ricotta, and also a number of ways to use the whey and a couple of helpful links
About Ricotta
Ricotta is the traditional cheese used in lasagna and other Italian dishes. Similar to cottage cheese. When I first starting make lasagna decades ago I could not find ricotta, so I used cottage cheese (purists stop cringing). First I have to tell you I have never been fond of either ricotta or cottage cheese unless it was disguised in something - like lasagna! I am changing my mind after making my farmers and now this wonderful ricotta from goats milk.
I adapted this recipe from Chef Michael Symon's -- his recipe calls for the addition of heavy cream - since goats milk is higher in fat than cow's I skipped the cream.
CATHERINE's GOATS MILK RICOTTA
1 quart of goats milk
1/3 cup of lemon juice and fine zest (not the strip zest) from the lemons used
1/2 teaspoon each sugar and kosher salt (I use organic sugar for my cooking)
Bring the milk to 180 degrees on the stove, stirring to prevent scorching.
Take off burner and add juice, zest, salt and sugar. Stir once or twice and let sit undisturbed for 20 minutes (or longer just as long as it is at least 20 minutes).
Pour into a colander lined with 4 single layers of cheese cloth (if you have true cheese making muslin use that instead - much of the curds were captured between the layers).
I let drain for about 15 minutes and then caught up the corners to make a bag, suspended it in a tall pyrex measuring cup and let continue to drain overnight in the refrigerator. I ended up with 1 cup of cheese and 3 cups of whey. The zest and sugar gave the cheese a really nice flavor. Since the curds are "dry" in this kind of cheese making style, you can add a bit cream to the cheese the next day to make is smoother and creamier.
So now had this wonderful ricotta which I used in the lasagna and 3 quarts of whey - what to do?
Gjetost! If you are of Scandinavian extraction you might recognize this cheese made from whey or it's cow's milk cousin Mysost, also called Prim-ost.
I would describe this best as a 'reduction' where the whey is boiled down to a thick or even hard cheese. Described as sweet, salty, caramel - that is exactly how it tasted to us.
If you want a unique treat trying making this from your leftover whey sometime. It is, however, not the most efficient use of the whey and energy, as the reducing aspect takes a long time, and you have to monitor it. The picture shows whey and the finished product. Some references refer to adding cream to the process and beating it at the end. I did neither as I wanted to see what the straight reduction would taste like.
GJETOST RECIPE
Equipment:
1 anodized aluminum sauce pan (even heat distribution)
bamboo flat edge spatula (so I could keep the bottom of the pan properly 'scrapped')
Colander
Cheese cloth (as mentioned above true cheese making muslin would work better)
Container and method to suspend the bag of curds for draining
Buttered container to receive the finished product
Recipe:
3 cups of whey from the ricotta (I chose to use only the ricotta whey without adding yogurt whey - you can combine wheys for this -- if I try the recipe again, I will try it next time with only yogurt whey)
Brought to boil then reduced to next level down on electric stove. You want to keep the whey at a vigorous boil, without boiling over.
It took 50 minutes to boil the whey down to a very thick sauce consistency. I removed it at that point as I could really smell the caramel scent and did not want to scorch it.
Immediately pour into a prepared buttered container. Cool and store in the refrigerator. Folks who love this cheese spread it on rye crisp. I tried it on ciabatta bread and the contrast was very nice. Any unflavored cracker should work nicely.
I wound up with about a quarter cup of cheese from 3 cups of whey.
When you check out the links I provide below, you will see a much denser and darker 'fudge' like consistency. Using a whole lot more whey by volume will give you more finished product and you can boil it longer. Be cautioned that boiling a gallon or more of liquid to reduction can take HOURS.
Some observations:
1) The Gjetost really had a unique sweet, salty, caramel flavor - intriguing.
2) Reminded me of the process I use to make caramel from sweetened condensed milk, where I use a double boiler to minimize monitoring of the process and prevent burning. A double boiler might not work for the Gjetost because it would require far more time, but less stirring. I think one of the diffusers for stove tops would help with minimizing the potential for burning/scorching.
3) I regularly ran my flat edge bamboo spatula through the whey during the 50 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot. It did not burn.
4) You must use a heavy bottom pot stainless steel, anodized aluminum, or other pot for even heat distribution. DO NOT USE teflon coated pots.
5) The efficiency of this recipe is very low. A scant 1/4 cup of product from 3 cups of whey with the monitoring care needed during the boiling process was an uneven energy/volume result. But again, if you want a unique treat try is some time.
How to make Gjetost:
http://biology.clc.uc.edu/Fankhauser/Cheese/Gjetost/Gjetost.htm
Also check this site for a tiny bit of different recipe.
http://thepurloinedletter.blogspot.com/2007/06/making-mysost.html
Some history and help
http://cheesemakinghelp.blogspot.com/2010/02/prim-ost-anyone.html
USING WHEY--OTHER ECONOMICAL IDEAS
Some soup ideas using whey (discussion with recipes)
http://cheesemakinghelp.blogspot.com/2011/02/using-whey-in-soups.html
Simple soup stock using whey (video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbhSwwdRTgk
Other soup ideas: Any soup which is a "cream" soup - add milk, cream or half and half to give it more richness.
Potato or Potato/Leek soup.
Mac 'n Cheese (homemade)
Cook potatoes in whey instead of water.
Other uses:
Feed whey to pets and poultry
Add to compost pile
Some folks feed plants with it - be careful of salt content in arid areas like the desert with adding to compost or plants.
Baking - use in place of all or some of any liquid for baked products.
Hope these give you some fun ideas in the kitchen.
Have a great day,
P.S. 17th Annual Herb Festival this Saturday at Boyce Thompson Arboretum - 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The weather looks a bit iffy, but come out as I'm sure we will set it up to be visitor friendly! Always great herb specialists there.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
I have made my own yogurt for a number of years. Last year I made a kind of Farmers (like cottage) cheese and last week I made a wonderful ricotta because I wanted to make a lasagna (next post will have the lasagna recipe and pictures), using some of our garden offerings, my ricotta and my friend Kathy's mozzarella, and using vegetables in place of the noodles.
Being one of those people who likes to either use up, recycle or find additional uses for things the thing you wind up with even with homemade yogurt and certainly ricotta is a lot of whey. Whey is opaque liquid left from cheese making and has protein, minerals, sugars (lactose) and some calories. If you are or know someone, who uses protein drinks made with whey powder, then you may be familiar with its nutrient qualities. In the past I have used my whey in baking - always a good choice but there are more options, including a unique cheese recipe I tripped across while researching more uses for whey.
Below I give you the recipe for the ricotta, and also a number of ways to use the whey and a couple of helpful links
About Ricotta
Ricotta is the traditional cheese used in lasagna and other Italian dishes. Similar to cottage cheese. When I first starting make lasagna decades ago I could not find ricotta, so I used cottage cheese (purists stop cringing). First I have to tell you I have never been fond of either ricotta or cottage cheese unless it was disguised in something - like lasagna! I am changing my mind after making my farmers and now this wonderful ricotta from goats milk.
I adapted this recipe from Chef Michael Symon's -- his recipe calls for the addition of heavy cream - since goats milk is higher in fat than cow's I skipped the cream.
CATHERINE's GOATS MILK RICOTTA
1 quart of goats milk
1/3 cup of lemon juice and fine zest (not the strip zest) from the lemons used
1/2 teaspoon each sugar and kosher salt (I use organic sugar for my cooking)
Bring the milk to 180 degrees on the stove, stirring to prevent scorching.
Take off burner and add juice, zest, salt and sugar. Stir once or twice and let sit undisturbed for 20 minutes (or longer just as long as it is at least 20 minutes).
Pour into a colander lined with 4 single layers of cheese cloth (if you have true cheese making muslin use that instead - much of the curds were captured between the layers).
I let drain for about 15 minutes and then caught up the corners to make a bag, suspended it in a tall pyrex measuring cup and let continue to drain overnight in the refrigerator. I ended up with 1 cup of cheese and 3 cups of whey. The zest and sugar gave the cheese a really nice flavor. Since the curds are "dry" in this kind of cheese making style, you can add a bit cream to the cheese the next day to make is smoother and creamier.
So now had this wonderful ricotta which I used in the lasagna and 3 quarts of whey - what to do?
Gjetost! If you are of Scandinavian extraction you might recognize this cheese made from whey or it's cow's milk cousin Mysost, also called Prim-ost.
I would describe this best as a 'reduction' where the whey is boiled down to a thick or even hard cheese. Described as sweet, salty, caramel - that is exactly how it tasted to us.
If you want a unique treat trying making this from your leftover whey sometime. It is, however, not the most efficient use of the whey and energy, as the reducing aspect takes a long time, and you have to monitor it. The picture shows whey and the finished product. Some references refer to adding cream to the process and beating it at the end. I did neither as I wanted to see what the straight reduction would taste like.
GJETOST RECIPE
Equipment:
1 anodized aluminum sauce pan (even heat distribution)
bamboo flat edge spatula (so I could keep the bottom of the pan properly 'scrapped')
Colander
Cheese cloth (as mentioned above true cheese making muslin would work better)
Container and method to suspend the bag of curds for draining
Buttered container to receive the finished product
Recipe:
3 cups of whey from the ricotta (I chose to use only the ricotta whey without adding yogurt whey - you can combine wheys for this -- if I try the recipe again, I will try it next time with only yogurt whey)
Brought to boil then reduced to next level down on electric stove. You want to keep the whey at a vigorous boil, without boiling over.
It took 50 minutes to boil the whey down to a very thick sauce consistency. I removed it at that point as I could really smell the caramel scent and did not want to scorch it.
Immediately pour into a prepared buttered container. Cool and store in the refrigerator. Folks who love this cheese spread it on rye crisp. I tried it on ciabatta bread and the contrast was very nice. Any unflavored cracker should work nicely.
I wound up with about a quarter cup of cheese from 3 cups of whey.
When you check out the links I provide below, you will see a much denser and darker 'fudge' like consistency. Using a whole lot more whey by volume will give you more finished product and you can boil it longer. Be cautioned that boiling a gallon or more of liquid to reduction can take HOURS.
Some observations:
1) The Gjetost really had a unique sweet, salty, caramel flavor - intriguing.
2) Reminded me of the process I use to make caramel from sweetened condensed milk, where I use a double boiler to minimize monitoring of the process and prevent burning. A double boiler might not work for the Gjetost because it would require far more time, but less stirring. I think one of the diffusers for stove tops would help with minimizing the potential for burning/scorching.
3) I regularly ran my flat edge bamboo spatula through the whey during the 50 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot. It did not burn.
4) You must use a heavy bottom pot stainless steel, anodized aluminum, or other pot for even heat distribution. DO NOT USE teflon coated pots.
5) The efficiency of this recipe is very low. A scant 1/4 cup of product from 3 cups of whey with the monitoring care needed during the boiling process was an uneven energy/volume result. But again, if you want a unique treat try is some time.
How to make Gjetost:
http://biology.clc.uc.edu/Fankhauser/Cheese/Gjetost/Gjetost.htm
Also check this site for a tiny bit of different recipe.
http://thepurloinedletter.blogspot.com/2007/06/making-mysost.html
Some history and help
http://cheesemakinghelp.blogspot.com/2010/02/prim-ost-anyone.html
USING WHEY--OTHER ECONOMICAL IDEAS
Some soup ideas using whey (discussion with recipes)
http://cheesemakinghelp.blogspot.com/2011/02/using-whey-in-soups.html
Simple soup stock using whey (video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbhSwwdRTgk
Other soup ideas: Any soup which is a "cream" soup - add milk, cream or half and half to give it more richness.
Potato or Potato/Leek soup.
Mac 'n Cheese (homemade)
Cook potatoes in whey instead of water.
Other uses:
Feed whey to pets and poultry
Add to compost pile
Some folks feed plants with it - be careful of salt content in arid areas like the desert with adding to compost or plants.
Baking - use in place of all or some of any liquid for baked products.
Hope these give you some fun ideas in the kitchen.
Have a great day,
P.S. 17th Annual Herb Festival this Saturday at Boyce Thompson Arboretum - 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The weather looks a bit iffy, but come out as I'm sure we will set it up to be visitor friendly! Always great herb specialists there.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Tuesday, April 05, 2011
Gardeners With Patience Are Rewarded!
Dear Folks,
Many, many times I have cautioned about maintaining patience in the winter to spring garden. This year was no exception and with the hard freezes we had got many of you jittery about when to prune off the damage. Occasionally some jumped the gun because of what appeared to be utter 'green death'.
I want to share with you how my patience paid off. I did believe I had lost my beloved Mexican Oregano plant - over 6 years old and about 7 - 8 feet tall which took the freezes none to well. The first one in January brought dead wood down to 4 feet, then the multiple freezes in February took anything green out of visibility and the branches started shedding bark -- not a good sign. About 2 and a half weeks ago (middle of March), I began just removing some of the overhead debris, taking off the brittle top 2-3 feet. Nothing was visible of new growth. I waited a week, and broke off more brittle top growth, and then I saw the bright green new growth at the bottom. Yippee! (I really did not want to start over with this wonderful plant.)
All the plant was cut down to where you see in the picture - there are actually two plants similar in appearance about 3 feet apart. Both are regenerating anew.
French Tarragon is another favorite of mine and I know it will come back in the spring - the plant pictured plant was taken the same time as the Mexican Oregano above and has been in that spot for 3 years - The plant tag is a tad weathered and I keep it there to remind anyone else that it is not a weed! Today (April 5), the plant is now about 5 times higher in growth. I cleaned the bed out to make more room for this great herb.
Speaking of weeds, I'm trying to get rid of the chocolate mint in that bed I mistakenly planted 4 or 5 years ago. A reminder to everyone that if you are successful with mint you need to keep it under control.
Back to French Tarragon and Mexican Oregano for a moment. Both have incredible fragrance and flavor. Their respective essential oils are some of the most robust in the herb kingdom. Both need to be used in moderation as the flavor can be overwhelming.
I was not a fan of Tarragon 2 decades ago, because I had an over-powering tarragon chicken served to me one time it was awful - the anise/licorice overpowered everything else.
So the garden lesson here, folks is to be patient. If you want to garden with favorite perennial edibles you need to put up with winter 'bad - hair' times for your plants. NEVER take the damage off until the danger is gone. I know it looks bad but you risk losing the plant.
Since we are coming into spring then our hot summer it is important to remember that "sunburn" on plants is the same kind of damage as frost damage in the winter. Do Not Touch the damage until the danger is gone. By the beginning to middle of September you can start taking some of the sunburn off a little at time so allow the tender growth shielded by the damaged plant matter to 'harden off' to the sun.
We had more roller coastering of the weather and will have some more this and next week. Be cautious of planting seeds right before a rain - if the rain is heavy it can wash the seeds out. On the other hand, right before a rain is a good time to transplant seedlings, shrubs and trees. You will always water in right after you transplant, but the rain will ensure a good soil to root bond.
And, don't forget one of the keys to desert gardening success is to plant at the right time for the plant variety!
Happy Gardening!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Find my books in print and as ebooks here
Many, many times I have cautioned about maintaining patience in the winter to spring garden. This year was no exception and with the hard freezes we had got many of you jittery about when to prune off the damage. Occasionally some jumped the gun because of what appeared to be utter 'green death'.
I want to share with you how my patience paid off. I did believe I had lost my beloved Mexican Oregano plant - over 6 years old and about 7 - 8 feet tall which took the freezes none to well. The first one in January brought dead wood down to 4 feet, then the multiple freezes in February took anything green out of visibility and the branches started shedding bark -- not a good sign. About 2 and a half weeks ago (middle of March), I began just removing some of the overhead debris, taking off the brittle top 2-3 feet. Nothing was visible of new growth. I waited a week, and broke off more brittle top growth, and then I saw the bright green new growth at the bottom. Yippee! (I really did not want to start over with this wonderful plant.)All the plant was cut down to where you see in the picture - there are actually two plants similar in appearance about 3 feet apart. Both are regenerating anew.
French Tarragon is another favorite of mine and I know it will come back in the spring - the plant pictured plant was taken the same time as the Mexican Oregano above and has been in that spot for 3 years - The plant tag is a tad weathered and I keep it there to remind anyone else that it is not a weed! Today (April 5), the plant is now about 5 times higher in growth. I cleaned the bed out to make more room for this great herb.Speaking of weeds, I'm trying to get rid of the chocolate mint in that bed I mistakenly planted 4 or 5 years ago. A reminder to everyone that if you are successful with mint you need to keep it under control.
Back to French Tarragon and Mexican Oregano for a moment. Both have incredible fragrance and flavor. Their respective essential oils are some of the most robust in the herb kingdom. Both need to be used in moderation as the flavor can be overwhelming.
I was not a fan of Tarragon 2 decades ago, because I had an over-powering tarragon chicken served to me one time it was awful - the anise/licorice overpowered everything else.
So the garden lesson here, folks is to be patient. If you want to garden with favorite perennial edibles you need to put up with winter 'bad - hair' times for your plants. NEVER take the damage off until the danger is gone. I know it looks bad but you risk losing the plant.
Since we are coming into spring then our hot summer it is important to remember that "sunburn" on plants is the same kind of damage as frost damage in the winter. Do Not Touch the damage until the danger is gone. By the beginning to middle of September you can start taking some of the sunburn off a little at time so allow the tender growth shielded by the damaged plant matter to 'harden off' to the sun.
We had more roller coastering of the weather and will have some more this and next week. Be cautious of planting seeds right before a rain - if the rain is heavy it can wash the seeds out. On the other hand, right before a rain is a good time to transplant seedlings, shrubs and trees. You will always water in right after you transplant, but the rain will ensure a good soil to root bond.
And, don't forget one of the keys to desert gardening success is to plant at the right time for the plant variety!
Happy Gardening!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Find my books in print and as ebooks here
Friday, April 01, 2011
e-Books, e-Readers and Trying to Figure Them Out!
Dear Folks,
Do you know the ins and outs of eReaders and eBooks? I'm still trying to figure it out myself. Since I have had questions from customers as to whether my books can be downloaded into Kindle or similar devices, I thought I better get more information for my own use and for any of you who wish to purchase ebook versions of my books.
Before iPad and Kindle exploded the market for ebooks (digital files of published books) there was PDF, a file format which has been around for decades and was one of the first "ebook" formats - meaning you could get a book in a file form you could download onto your PC or Mac.
Some of the initial concern with PDFs was the ability of 'some' folks to pirate the files and avoid paying the author/publisher not only their monetary value, but also their copyrights.
Both of my main books have been available as PDF options for purchase for several years now.
Then iPad galloped onto the scene and everyone, it seemed, wanted not only to own one for its multi-tasking capabilities, but every author and publishing house wanted to get their work into iBookstore. Me included -- both my books are now available for iPad.
So we now have not only all the one-function eReaders like Kindle (it is REALLY difficult to do more than download and read books on it), but in addition to iPad we now have reader/tablets (tablet is the name for those devices which are the size of a paperback or slightly larger unit) like NookColor and more that, offer websurfing, email checking in addition to being able to read a book on the device.
I'm considering the NookColor for those capabilities so I don't have to turn on the computer to check my email and look up something quickly.
Back to your "reader" or the one you are considering. I LOVE books and have a library of favorite fiction along with my research books on cooking, gardening and herbs. I also enjoy some selected magazines -- which have turned into a library of their own and I'm now seeing the benefit of having books and magazines on either my computer (more on that below - it is an option to the tablet) or a tablet - tablet being the generic term for these iPad and ereaders. Those magazines I've accumulated over the years? The problem is I have to remember where in what magazine I saw the article, reference or recipe I want -- practically impossible.
So now I can really see the benefit of having my books and magazines as a digital and searchable file. Now that is worth looking into!
I will not ever, most likely, get rid of my books, but the magazines can be either recycled in the recycling centers or donated to Senior Centers. I also may not stop buying my fiction books (I am fond of 'cozy' mysteries with a food or gardening theme).
So now you may be thinking more of buying a reader or maybe using your computer for the digital books.
USING THE COMPUTER
You can, in fact, download free software to read the modern file format of ePUB on your computer. Here's the challenge - long periods of reading are not going to be physically comfortable. Think about the last time you spent an hour or two working on the computer, and translate that into sitting and reading a book or magazine and you can see why the technical engineers developed a hand-held device that physically mimics holding a book.
If you merely want to search for something you can certainly use your computer for that within the book or magazine, so you have the 'right' to store your purchases or free downloads on both your computer and your reading device. Best of both worlds.
To Read ePUB files you need to have software to do that. Favorite digital content giant Adobe has a free program called
Adobe Digital Editions - reading software for computers and tablets http://www.adobe.com/products/digitaleditions/
OR,
Another software developed also offers a free download of reading software specifically aimed at the iPad, iPod Touch, and iPhone.
Stanza - reading software for iPhone, iPad, and iPod Touch http://www.lexcycle.com/
Back to the original digital file format PDF
At $500 give or take bells and whistles the iPad is out of reach for many people. With Kindle and Sony preceding the launch of the iPad, PDF files were in the forefront of the eReading revolution.
Some options are:
Sony readers can take either ePub or PDF
Kindle takes PDF and Amazon's proprietary publishing format
NookColor and Nook can use either ePub, PDF or PDB
Some of the other-than-iPad readers/tablets can also play music, video and view pictures.
The variety of bells and whistles depends on the device. You really should consider going to a physical store and trying the device(s) you are interested in. (Also if you can support your local economy by purchasing locally.)
Back to my customer's Kindle question - yes my books can be purchased as a PDF. I asked my friend to download my book into her kindle (I actually did the work, because I also wanted to know the procedure).
The easiest way was to download it into her computer first and transfer the book to her Kindle via USB cable. Why? The kindle's limited keyboard is a bear to deal with when surfing on the web. The keyboard is letters only - to add a numerical digit or a character like "1" or @ you have to switch to a different 'mode' - it was a pain and the reason why she says she would have now known to choose a different or more flexible reader.
BUT if you only want to download from Amazon and just use the device for reading - Kindle is easy and inexpensive for the one-function only needs.
I am personally a person who wants my devices to do more than one thing unless that one thing is so specialized that nothing else compares to it. E-Readers don't fall into that category for me. I want more out of my hundred(s) dollar purchase.
New to reading ebooks? Find your device and the compatible formats here - they keep coming out with more devices, but this is gives some of the most popular - Nook is not on it but I looked up the information note above for compatibility.
http://connect.lulu.com/t5/Digital-Media-eBook-Downloading/What-devices-can-I-view-my-eBook-on/ta-p/31639
To sum up, below I give you links to the various forms of my books in either ePub or PDF format.
101+ Recipes From The Herb Lady
EPUB format
http://www.lulu.com/product/ebook/101%2b-recipes-from-the-herb-lady/12287998
PDF format
http://www.lulu.com/product/file-download/101%2b-recipes-from-the-herb-lady/3908953
Edible Landscaping in The Desert Southwest: Wheelbarrow To Plate
EPUB Format
http://www.lulu.com/product/ebook/edible-landscaping-in-the-desert-southwest-wheelbarrow-to-plate/12289103
PDF Format
http://www.lulu.com/product/file-download/edible-landscaping-in-the-desert-southwest-wheelbarrow-to-plate/3908941
http://www.lulu.com/product/file-download/whats-a-chill-hour-help-in-choosing-fruit-trees-in-the-desert-southwest/2519906
If you want to just browse, go to my publisher store site -- there when it says "ebook" it means the ePUB version and when it says "download" it means the PDF version.
http://stores.lulu.com/herbs2u
Hope that is helpful to you all considering not only my books but any other publications. We live in interesting times, and sometimes the interests are good :-)
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Do you know the ins and outs of eReaders and eBooks? I'm still trying to figure it out myself. Since I have had questions from customers as to whether my books can be downloaded into Kindle or similar devices, I thought I better get more information for my own use and for any of you who wish to purchase ebook versions of my books.
Before iPad and Kindle exploded the market for ebooks (digital files of published books) there was PDF, a file format which has been around for decades and was one of the first "ebook" formats - meaning you could get a book in a file form you could download onto your PC or Mac.
Some of the initial concern with PDFs was the ability of 'some' folks to pirate the files and avoid paying the author/publisher not only their monetary value, but also their copyrights.
Both of my main books have been available as PDF options for purchase for several years now.
Then iPad galloped onto the scene and everyone, it seemed, wanted not only to own one for its multi-tasking capabilities, but every author and publishing house wanted to get their work into iBookstore. Me included -- both my books are now available for iPad.
So we now have not only all the one-function eReaders like Kindle (it is REALLY difficult to do more than download and read books on it), but in addition to iPad we now have reader/tablets (tablet is the name for those devices which are the size of a paperback or slightly larger unit) like NookColor and more that, offer websurfing, email checking in addition to being able to read a book on the device.
I'm considering the NookColor for those capabilities so I don't have to turn on the computer to check my email and look up something quickly.
Back to your "reader" or the one you are considering. I LOVE books and have a library of favorite fiction along with my research books on cooking, gardening and herbs. I also enjoy some selected magazines -- which have turned into a library of their own and I'm now seeing the benefit of having books and magazines on either my computer (more on that below - it is an option to the tablet) or a tablet - tablet being the generic term for these iPad and ereaders. Those magazines I've accumulated over the years? The problem is I have to remember where in what magazine I saw the article, reference or recipe I want -- practically impossible.
So now I can really see the benefit of having my books and magazines as a digital and searchable file. Now that is worth looking into!
I will not ever, most likely, get rid of my books, but the magazines can be either recycled in the recycling centers or donated to Senior Centers. I also may not stop buying my fiction books (I am fond of 'cozy' mysteries with a food or gardening theme).
So now you may be thinking more of buying a reader or maybe using your computer for the digital books.
USING THE COMPUTER
You can, in fact, download free software to read the modern file format of ePUB on your computer. Here's the challenge - long periods of reading are not going to be physically comfortable. Think about the last time you spent an hour or two working on the computer, and translate that into sitting and reading a book or magazine and you can see why the technical engineers developed a hand-held device that physically mimics holding a book.
If you merely want to search for something you can certainly use your computer for that within the book or magazine, so you have the 'right' to store your purchases or free downloads on both your computer and your reading device. Best of both worlds.
To Read ePUB files you need to have software to do that. Favorite digital content giant Adobe has a free program called
Adobe Digital Editions - reading software for computers and tablets http://www.adobe.com/products/digitaleditions/
OR,
Another software developed also offers a free download of reading software specifically aimed at the iPad, iPod Touch, and iPhone.
Stanza - reading software for iPhone, iPad, and iPod Touch http://www.lexcycle.com/
Back to the original digital file format PDF
At $500 give or take bells and whistles the iPad is out of reach for many people. With Kindle and Sony preceding the launch of the iPad, PDF files were in the forefront of the eReading revolution.
Some options are:
Sony readers can take either ePub or PDF
Kindle takes PDF and Amazon's proprietary publishing format
NookColor and Nook can use either ePub, PDF or PDB
Some of the other-than-iPad readers/tablets can also play music, video and view pictures.
The variety of bells and whistles depends on the device. You really should consider going to a physical store and trying the device(s) you are interested in. (Also if you can support your local economy by purchasing locally.)
Back to my customer's Kindle question - yes my books can be purchased as a PDF. I asked my friend to download my book into her kindle (I actually did the work, because I also wanted to know the procedure).
The easiest way was to download it into her computer first and transfer the book to her Kindle via USB cable. Why? The kindle's limited keyboard is a bear to deal with when surfing on the web. The keyboard is letters only - to add a numerical digit or a character like "1" or @ you have to switch to a different 'mode' - it was a pain and the reason why she says she would have now known to choose a different or more flexible reader.
BUT if you only want to download from Amazon and just use the device for reading - Kindle is easy and inexpensive for the one-function only needs.
I am personally a person who wants my devices to do more than one thing unless that one thing is so specialized that nothing else compares to it. E-Readers don't fall into that category for me. I want more out of my hundred(s) dollar purchase.
New to reading ebooks? Find your device and the compatible formats here - they keep coming out with more devices, but this is gives some of the most popular - Nook is not on it but I looked up the information note above for compatibility.
http://connect.lulu.com/t5/Digital-Media-eBook-Downloading/What-devices-can-I-view-my-eBook-on/ta-p/31639
To sum up, below I give you links to the various forms of my books in either ePub or PDF format.
101+ Recipes From The Herb Lady
EPUB format
http://www.lulu.com/product/ebook/101%2b-recipes-from-the-herb-lady/12287998
PDF format
http://www.lulu.com/product/file-download/101%2b-recipes-from-the-herb-lady/3908953
Edible Landscaping in The Desert Southwest: Wheelbarrow To Plate
EPUB Format
http://www.lulu.com/product/ebook/edible-landscaping-in-the-desert-southwest-wheelbarrow-to-plate/12289103
PDF Format
http://www.lulu.com/product/file-download/edible-landscaping-in-the-desert-southwest-wheelbarrow-to-plate/3908941
What's A Chill Hour? Help In Choosing Fruit Trees in The Desert Southwest
PDF Format (only not available as ePub)http://www.lulu.com/product/file-download/whats-a-chill-hour-help-in-choosing-fruit-trees-in-the-desert-southwest/2519906
If you want to just browse, go to my publisher store site -- there when it says "ebook" it means the ePUB version and when it says "download" it means the PDF version.
http://stores.lulu.com/herbs2u
Hope that is helpful to you all considering not only my books but any other publications. We live in interesting times, and sometimes the interests are good :-)
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Organic Chicken Safer - Another Reason To Support Non-GMO Products
Dear Folks,
Organic Chicken has far less salmonella than traditionally raised. In a study published in the Journal Foodborne Pathogens and Diseases traditionally raised chickens had almost 7 times the incidents of salmonella as organic raised AND the non-organic salmonella types were antibiotic resistant, but not the types occurring in the organic-raised birds.
It goes without saying this also is relative to the eggs laid by the birds.
Another reason to press our representatives and the USDA and FDA to make GMO labeling required and to enforce with penalties any GMO suppliers and growers who contaminate organic farms and ranches.
While not every supplier of eggs or chickens is certified organic, those that follow the same principals of raising and handling would have the same healthier eggs etc.
Search the blog here for my GMO related posts.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Organic Chicken has far less salmonella than traditionally raised. In a study published in the Journal Foodborne Pathogens and Diseases traditionally raised chickens had almost 7 times the incidents of salmonella as organic raised AND the non-organic salmonella types were antibiotic resistant, but not the types occurring in the organic-raised birds.
It goes without saying this also is relative to the eggs laid by the birds.
Another reason to press our representatives and the USDA and FDA to make GMO labeling required and to enforce with penalties any GMO suppliers and growers who contaminate organic farms and ranches.
While not every supplier of eggs or chickens is certified organic, those that follow the same principals of raising and handling would have the same healthier eggs etc.
Search the blog here for my GMO related posts.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Thursday, March 24, 2011
USDA Sued Over Deregulation of GMO Alfalfa - and Backyard Gardening Tips
Dear Folks,
This blog is about the lawsuit over the deregulation of GMO alfalfa , demanding choices from the USDA and FDA, and also about getting you more serious about gardening at home.
. . .
DES MOINES, Iowa (AP) — A lawsuit filed in California is challenging the federal government's deregulation of alfalfa that is genetically altered to withstand the popular weed killer Roundup.
Attorneys for the Center for Food Safety and Earthjustice filed the federal lawsuit Friday in San Francisco arguing the U.S. Department of Agriculture's approval of Roundup Ready alfalfa in January was unlawful.
Attorneys for the groups say the USDA failed to provide adequate oversight of biotech alfalfa. They also say genetically altered alfalfa causes significant harm to the environment and conventional crops, and threatens the nation's organic industry.
A federal court barred the planting of Roundup Ready alfalfa in 2007. The U.S. Supreme Court lifted the ban last year.
USDA officials say they are reviewing the lawsuit.
Copyright 2011 The Associated Press.
Read more about the lawsuit and the issues surrounding it at the two links below.
http://www.slashfood.com/2011/03/22/new-lawsuit-filed-over-gmo-alfalfa/
Contamination Certain from Unregulation
While the lawsuit proceeds, folks, it is important that we all make our voices heard both with our representatives and also with our chosen food supplies. That at the very least we want labeling to know when the foods we purchase contain GMO components.
Go to my previous posts on the USDA's decision to de-regulate GMO alfalfa without safeguarding organic and natural famers fields.
gmo-choice-voice-open-letter
USDA approves contamination of organic foods?
To summarize -- USDA and FDA requirements for organic certification is tough and complex and requires the producer to guarantee there are no GMO products in their fields or farm production. With the USDA's decision to deregulate GMO alfalfa WITHOUT safeguards many organic food producers will be put out of business because THEY will not be able to guarantee freedom from GMO contamination. The perfect "gotcha" from the USDA and FDA. In conjunction with the refusal of the FDA to require labeling of GMO foods, the consumer loses all the way around. No freedom of choice.
Read up on the First Lady's decision to grow an Organic garden on the lawn of the White House -- the information in this Wikipedia article indicates how Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack embraced the idea (he is now saying the USDA "can" regulate the contamination of GMO-Alfalfa).
"The day Michelle Obama broke ground on the new White House vegetable garden, a letter arrived for her from MACA, Mid-America Croplife Association, urging the Obamas to consider the need for traditional agriculture in America.[14] MACA went on to urge the use pesticides in their garden, to and increase crop yield so they could feed more people. "
White House Vegetable Garden
To help you get in touch with people, I have put a mailing list at the bottom of this blog for your convenience. Writing is more time consuming but more effective - with the internet techno stuff, many political people do not pay any attention to emails or computer generated post cards.
. . .
Your Urban Edible Garden
The problem with statements like - "you can't feed ... with home or organic produce", is just not a fair depiction of home or local gardening. Could you feed your family of say 4 from a backyard garden?
Personally I resent folks like Jeff Stier and Tom Vilsack, "telling" me I can't have a choice by making home gardening, organic or natural gardening, sound out of the capacity and range of the average American. T'ain't so!
About.Com has a nice article on doing some planning for growing some or all of the produce you eat in your backyard. Make sure you consider how to 'put by' some of the harvest for off-season use. In the past I've dried herbs, made them into flavored vinegars and teas, and canned peaches, apricots and apples. I've also put together fruit pie 'kits' in the freezer for enjoyment in the winter. When I had my goats and hens I drank the milk, made yogurt and ate the eggs.
If you have a lawn, then the water used to water that lawn could be used to grow edibles. A few dollars of seed, some elbow grease and family involvement can give you a productive garden. AND here in the desert if you pay attention to the basic rules for success in the desert I'm always writing about, you can be harvesting year-round seasonal bounty.
Don't forget the three sisters/companion planting of corn, beans and squash to maximize protein along with vitamins, minerals and fiber.
BACKYARD BARNYARD
How about adding hens for egg production to your backyard garden? The term "chicken feed" probably does not apply anymore because the cost has gone up substantially. However since you would not be housing your hens in a cage with only what you choose to feed them off the shelf, they can do triple duty for you which goes beyond the basic cost of feed. (And of course like preparing the garden, you have to prepare their quarters for their health and production.)
Chickens will eat many garden weeds, they will help you clean up the end of season garden mess (there are some plants they should not eat because they could be toxic), and they will keep garden bugs under control. And they can be fun and amusing.
You have options in choosing whether to feed your hens organic feed (preferrable) or non-organic. If you are currently purchasing organic eggs from local farmers markets or suppliers, you "may" save some money over what you pay directly, and you have the hens for their other qualities.
If you buy non-organic eggs and decide to raise hens on non-organic feed you may also save a little money. If you want to continue the idea of Non-GMO support then you need to go organic, because like or not you have to presume all non-organic feed may be GMO.
Current prices for Organic Laying Feed for hens is around $29 (including tax) for a 40 or 50 # bag and winds up costing you about $1.16 a week to feed each hen her primary feed (there are other minor expenses AFTER you set up their quarters). Non-Organic feed will cost you about half that. 6 month old to 18 month old hens will give you 5-7 eggs a week, and then start to taper off as they get older.
For a preferred list of supplies go to the Valley Permaculture Alliance keeping chickens page.
I got prices from two organic suppliers:
Noble Beast in Scottsdale
And
Anita's Organic Feed - Prescott
Anita's is about 25% more expensive than Valley prices, but convenient for Prescott (Skull Valley) area residents.
You can consider raising your own meat animals - that is a choice which needs to be carefully considered with all family members, so do some research if this is something you want to consider. Rabbits and chickens are options - not mine personally, but many folks want more control over everything they consume.
Check out the Valley Permaculture Alliance for a really helpful group of nice folks. They are all about urban sustainability and permaculture to enhance your lifestyle. I am a member of their soil builders and micro-livestock groups.
. . .
Write The People Who Have a Say in Your Food Choices:
The Honorable John McCain
United States Senate
241 Russell Senate Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20510-0303
The Honorable Jon Kyl
United States Senate
730 Hart Senate Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20510-0304
The Honorable Paul A. Gosar
United States House of Representatives
504 Cannon House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0301
The Honorable Trent Franks
United States House of Representatives
2435 Rayburn House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0302
The Honorable Benjamin (Ben) Quayle
United States House of Representatives
1419 Longworth House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0303
The Honorable Ed Pastor
United States House of Representatives
2465 Rayburn House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0304
The Honorable David Schweikert
United States House of Representatives
1205 Longworth House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0305
The Honorable Jeff Flake
United States House of Representatives
240 Cannon House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0306
The Honorable Raul M. Grijalva
United States House of Representatives
1511 Longworth House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0307
The Honorable Gabrielle Giffords
United States House of Representatives
1030 Longworth House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0308
NOTE: While Representative Giffords is healing (for which we are all grateful) her staff keeps up with everything and therefore you can write and voice your opinion.)
For All Other States Go To:
http://www.contactingthecongress.org/
President Barack Obama
The White House
1600 Pennsylvania Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20500
Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack
U.S. Department of Agriculture
1400 Independence Ave., S.W.
Washington, DC 20250
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
This blog is about the lawsuit over the deregulation of GMO alfalfa , demanding choices from the USDA and FDA, and also about getting you more serious about gardening at home.
. . .
DES MOINES, Iowa (AP) — A lawsuit filed in California is challenging the federal government's deregulation of alfalfa that is genetically altered to withstand the popular weed killer Roundup.
Attorneys for the Center for Food Safety and Earthjustice filed the federal lawsuit Friday in San Francisco arguing the U.S. Department of Agriculture's approval of Roundup Ready alfalfa in January was unlawful.
Attorneys for the groups say the USDA failed to provide adequate oversight of biotech alfalfa. They also say genetically altered alfalfa causes significant harm to the environment and conventional crops, and threatens the nation's organic industry.
A federal court barred the planting of Roundup Ready alfalfa in 2007. The U.S. Supreme Court lifted the ban last year.
USDA officials say they are reviewing the lawsuit.
Copyright 2011 The Associated Press.
Read more about the lawsuit and the issues surrounding it at the two links below.
http://www.slashfood.com/2011/03/22/new-lawsuit-filed-over-gmo-alfalfa/
Contamination Certain from Unregulation
While the lawsuit proceeds, folks, it is important that we all make our voices heard both with our representatives and also with our chosen food supplies. That at the very least we want labeling to know when the foods we purchase contain GMO components.
Go to my previous posts on the USDA's decision to de-regulate GMO alfalfa without safeguarding organic and natural famers fields.
gmo-choice-voice-open-letter
USDA approves contamination of organic foods?
To summarize -- USDA and FDA requirements for organic certification is tough and complex and requires the producer to guarantee there are no GMO products in their fields or farm production. With the USDA's decision to deregulate GMO alfalfa WITHOUT safeguards many organic food producers will be put out of business because THEY will not be able to guarantee freedom from GMO contamination. The perfect "gotcha" from the USDA and FDA. In conjunction with the refusal of the FDA to require labeling of GMO foods, the consumer loses all the way around. No freedom of choice.
Read up on the First Lady's decision to grow an Organic garden on the lawn of the White House -- the information in this Wikipedia article indicates how Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack embraced the idea (he is now saying the USDA "can" regulate the contamination of GMO-Alfalfa).
"The day Michelle Obama broke ground on the new White House vegetable garden, a letter arrived for her from MACA, Mid-America Croplife Association, urging the Obamas to consider the need for traditional agriculture in America.[14] MACA went on to urge the use pesticides in their garden, to and increase crop yield so they could feed more people. "
White House Vegetable Garden
To help you get in touch with people, I have put a mailing list at the bottom of this blog for your convenience. Writing is more time consuming but more effective - with the internet techno stuff, many political people do not pay any attention to emails or computer generated post cards.
. . .
Your Urban Edible Garden
The problem with statements like - "you can't feed ... with home or organic produce", is just not a fair depiction of home or local gardening. Could you feed your family of say 4 from a backyard garden?
Personally I resent folks like Jeff Stier and Tom Vilsack, "telling" me I can't have a choice by making home gardening, organic or natural gardening, sound out of the capacity and range of the average American. T'ain't so!
About.Com has a nice article on doing some planning for growing some or all of the produce you eat in your backyard. Make sure you consider how to 'put by' some of the harvest for off-season use. In the past I've dried herbs, made them into flavored vinegars and teas, and canned peaches, apricots and apples. I've also put together fruit pie 'kits' in the freezer for enjoyment in the winter. When I had my goats and hens I drank the milk, made yogurt and ate the eggs.
If you have a lawn, then the water used to water that lawn could be used to grow edibles. A few dollars of seed, some elbow grease and family involvement can give you a productive garden. AND here in the desert if you pay attention to the basic rules for success in the desert I'm always writing about, you can be harvesting year-round seasonal bounty.
Don't forget the three sisters/companion planting of corn, beans and squash to maximize protein along with vitamins, minerals and fiber.
BACKYARD BARNYARD
How about adding hens for egg production to your backyard garden? The term "chicken feed" probably does not apply anymore because the cost has gone up substantially. However since you would not be housing your hens in a cage with only what you choose to feed them off the shelf, they can do triple duty for you which goes beyond the basic cost of feed. (And of course like preparing the garden, you have to prepare their quarters for their health and production.)
Chickens will eat many garden weeds, they will help you clean up the end of season garden mess (there are some plants they should not eat because they could be toxic), and they will keep garden bugs under control. And they can be fun and amusing.
You have options in choosing whether to feed your hens organic feed (preferrable) or non-organic. If you are currently purchasing organic eggs from local farmers markets or suppliers, you "may" save some money over what you pay directly, and you have the hens for their other qualities.
If you buy non-organic eggs and decide to raise hens on non-organic feed you may also save a little money. If you want to continue the idea of Non-GMO support then you need to go organic, because like or not you have to presume all non-organic feed may be GMO.
Current prices for Organic Laying Feed for hens is around $29 (including tax) for a 40 or 50 # bag and winds up costing you about $1.16 a week to feed each hen her primary feed (there are other minor expenses AFTER you set up their quarters). Non-Organic feed will cost you about half that. 6 month old to 18 month old hens will give you 5-7 eggs a week, and then start to taper off as they get older.
For a preferred list of supplies go to the Valley Permaculture Alliance keeping chickens page.
I got prices from two organic suppliers:
Noble Beast in Scottsdale
And
Anita's Organic Feed - Prescott
Anita's is about 25% more expensive than Valley prices, but convenient for Prescott (Skull Valley) area residents.
You can consider raising your own meat animals - that is a choice which needs to be carefully considered with all family members, so do some research if this is something you want to consider. Rabbits and chickens are options - not mine personally, but many folks want more control over everything they consume.
Check out the Valley Permaculture Alliance for a really helpful group of nice folks. They are all about urban sustainability and permaculture to enhance your lifestyle. I am a member of their soil builders and micro-livestock groups.
. . .
Write The People Who Have a Say in Your Food Choices:
The Honorable John McCain
United States Senate
241 Russell Senate Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20510-0303
The Honorable Jon Kyl
United States Senate
730 Hart Senate Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20510-0304
The Honorable Paul A. Gosar
United States House of Representatives
504 Cannon House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0301
The Honorable Trent Franks
United States House of Representatives
2435 Rayburn House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0302
The Honorable Benjamin (Ben) Quayle
United States House of Representatives
1419 Longworth House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0303
The Honorable Ed Pastor
United States House of Representatives
2465 Rayburn House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0304
The Honorable David Schweikert
United States House of Representatives
1205 Longworth House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0305
The Honorable Jeff Flake
United States House of Representatives
240 Cannon House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0306
The Honorable Raul M. Grijalva
United States House of Representatives
1511 Longworth House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0307
The Honorable Gabrielle Giffords
United States House of Representatives
1030 Longworth House Office Building
Washington, D.C. 20515-0308
NOTE: While Representative Giffords is healing (for which we are all grateful) her staff keeps up with everything and therefore you can write and voice your opinion.)
For All Other States Go To:
http://www.contactingthecongress.org/
President Barack Obama
The White House
1600 Pennsylvania Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20500
Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack
U.S. Department of Agriculture
1400 Independence Ave., S.W.
Washington, DC 20250
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Corn Planting Tips In The Desert
Dear Folks,
We are lucky enough in our desert gardens to have two planting seasons for corn. The first planting time is quickly coming to an end (March 31st approx), so if you want to get a crop going NOW is the time.
First Make sure you purchase only heirloom or organic / naturally produced seed -- the chemical giants like Monsanto and Dow are gobbling up farms and acreage with their GMO seeds, so home growers NEED to make sure they are purchasing only Non-GMO seeds.
Pictured here is Black Aztec Sweet Corn an heirloom offered by Sweet Corn Organic Nursery out of Show Low. They are selling at the Mesa Farmers Market (and I've purchased some of their tomato plants to jump start my tomato production following our freezing set-backs).
Off and on over the last decade I've grown corn, testing several varieties including the Black Aztec, Strawberry, and one of the bi-color sweets.
Here in the Southwest you may want to go more traditional and grow one of the blue varieties.
GROWING TIPS:
1) Grow ONLY one variety at a time - you are going to want to save 1 or 2 ears at the end of the crop to dry for replacement seed and they will cross if plant 2 or more varieties at the same time.
2) Forget about strict row planting only for corn because they need to pollinate each other - Plant in BLOCKS. As my gardens have limited space when I plant a crop of corn, I usually plant single seeds approximately 6-8 inches apart -- or 12 inches apart if I'm growing something else with them - See "peas" below.
3) The soil should very well draining and fluffy with organics. If you have a lot worms in your soil that is a good indication you have good enough soil. Spade up and turn the soil over, and level just before planting.
4) Soak the corn seeds overnight before planting.
5) Plant the seeds 1 inch deep, firm the soil lightly over them and water in very well - even if you just watered that part of the garden. Keep the soil surface slightly moist until you seed growth (about 2 weeks), then start backing off the watering to encourage deep roots.
"PEAS"
Plant some sugar peas with the corn for more fun edibles and productive soil. The peas fix nitrogen back into the soil that the corn uses up. In the tradition of the "Three Sisters" planting concept of our Native Americans, corn, a legume and a melon or squash were all planted together in the original intentional companion planting concepts. In return the people got a complete and balance diet of high protein (corn + beans = complete protein) and the squash provided additional vitamins and minerals. The soil benefited too because of the nitrogen replacement of the legume and the soil canopy of the squash minimized evaporation and maximized the limited water in the arid regions.
I like sugar peas and they can be planted at the same time as the corn or just after the corn seedlings emerge. Soak the sugar peas for 8 hours before planting. The pea vines will grow up the natural trellis of the stalk.
As the corn and peas grow, you will have an opportunity to harvest peas before the corn. Pick the pods regularly and you get more peas!
When growing corn the most problematic pest is the corn ear worm. As soon as you see first silk, take an eye dropper and any vegetable (mineral oil is traditional) oil and gently insert the dropper into the base of the silk/tip of the ear and put several drops of oil in, put another drop or two of oil at the exposed silk base. The oil keeps the moth eggs from hatching and doing their damage.
As the corn grows eventually you will see the silks darkening and then drying out. The test is to pull back some of the husk and silk and break one of the corn kernels to see if it produces a 'milky' juice - when it does they are ready to harvest. Old time corn farmers would yell to their wives to get the kettle water boiling and they would rush into the house with the newly harvested corn.
LEAVE 1 or 2 EARS On the stalks, and allow to completely dry out. The kernels should be as dry as the ones your originally planted. Remove from the cob and allow to dry more if needed. Store in paper envelopes in cool and dry conditions as you would other seed. You can plant next spring, or if you become addicted to the corn -- plant for fall crops beginning in June/July.
If you have never had just picked corn, it is possible to eat the kernels fresh and uncooked right from the plant, they are that sweet just as picked. The reason so much research went into producing hybrid sweet corns is that the sugars begin to wane as soon as the corn is picked, so the researchers wanted sweet corn with staying power - enter the super sweets.
Also, unfortunately, chemical laboratories which wanted to produce franken-corn that would kill the corn worms from the inside by genticially producing corn seeds which contain insecticides.
Cooking Tips: Instead of boiling - a perfectly fine way of cooking too -- grill your corn - as with all vegetables roasted or grilled the super hot cooking process condenses all the sugars for super taste.
CORN SILK:
To roast or grill corn, you want to gently pull back the husks, remove the silks, pull the husks back over the corn, soak a few minutes in water and toss on the grill. (You can also make flavored butters to brush on before replacing the husks or after you pull them off the grill.)
SAVE THE SILK - I love recycling particularly when you get to use some food part you might otherwise through away. Make corn silk tea! An old 'herb' remedy for arthritis and bladder infections (and a new one to me - I'm always learning something!), I happened to catch the reference in Jan/Feb 2011 issue of Food Network magazine. Chef Jeff Smedstad of Elote Cafe in Sedona, runs through a couple of hundred ears of corn each night and saves the silks to brew up some tea for his staffs' stiff and achy joints. Way to go Chef Smedstad! (2/3 cup of silk, 16 oz of water. Simmer 10 minutes and strain - you can also add a bit of lemon and honey to taste.)
BACK TO THE PEAS - if you chose to grow the sugar peas with the corn, continue to harvest the peas until they stop producing. Allow the pea vines to dry out completely before removing (this makes sure the available nitrogen gets fully into the soil - or turn the vines back into the soil with a pitchfork). Pull the corn stalks when you are finished harvesting all the corn and 'seed' ears.
I hope you enjoy your patch of corn and beans! And, don't forget the silk tea for all those gardeners' aches.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
We are lucky enough in our desert gardens to have two planting seasons for corn. The first planting time is quickly coming to an end (March 31st approx), so if you want to get a crop going NOW is the time.
Pictured here is Black Aztec Sweet Corn an heirloom offered by Sweet Corn Organic Nursery out of Show Low. They are selling at the Mesa Farmers Market (and I've purchased some of their tomato plants to jump start my tomato production following our freezing set-backs).
Off and on over the last decade I've grown corn, testing several varieties including the Black Aztec, Strawberry, and one of the bi-color sweets.
Here in the Southwest you may want to go more traditional and grow one of the blue varieties.
GROWING TIPS:
1) Grow ONLY one variety at a time - you are going to want to save 1 or 2 ears at the end of the crop to dry for replacement seed and they will cross if plant 2 or more varieties at the same time.
2) Forget about strict row planting only for corn because they need to pollinate each other - Plant in BLOCKS. As my gardens have limited space when I plant a crop of corn, I usually plant single seeds approximately 6-8 inches apart -- or 12 inches apart if I'm growing something else with them - See "peas" below.
3) The soil should very well draining and fluffy with organics. If you have a lot worms in your soil that is a good indication you have good enough soil. Spade up and turn the soil over, and level just before planting.
4) Soak the corn seeds overnight before planting.
5) Plant the seeds 1 inch deep, firm the soil lightly over them and water in very well - even if you just watered that part of the garden. Keep the soil surface slightly moist until you seed growth (about 2 weeks), then start backing off the watering to encourage deep roots.
"PEAS"
Plant some sugar peas with the corn for more fun edibles and productive soil. The peas fix nitrogen back into the soil that the corn uses up. In the tradition of the "Three Sisters" planting concept of our Native Americans, corn, a legume and a melon or squash were all planted together in the original intentional companion planting concepts. In return the people got a complete and balance diet of high protein (corn + beans = complete protein) and the squash provided additional vitamins and minerals. The soil benefited too because of the nitrogen replacement of the legume and the soil canopy of the squash minimized evaporation and maximized the limited water in the arid regions.
I like sugar peas and they can be planted at the same time as the corn or just after the corn seedlings emerge. Soak the sugar peas for 8 hours before planting. The pea vines will grow up the natural trellis of the stalk.
As the corn and peas grow, you will have an opportunity to harvest peas before the corn. Pick the pods regularly and you get more peas!
When growing corn the most problematic pest is the corn ear worm. As soon as you see first silk, take an eye dropper and any vegetable (mineral oil is traditional) oil and gently insert the dropper into the base of the silk/tip of the ear and put several drops of oil in, put another drop or two of oil at the exposed silk base. The oil keeps the moth eggs from hatching and doing their damage.
As the corn grows eventually you will see the silks darkening and then drying out. The test is to pull back some of the husk and silk and break one of the corn kernels to see if it produces a 'milky' juice - when it does they are ready to harvest. Old time corn farmers would yell to their wives to get the kettle water boiling and they would rush into the house with the newly harvested corn.
LEAVE 1 or 2 EARS On the stalks, and allow to completely dry out. The kernels should be as dry as the ones your originally planted. Remove from the cob and allow to dry more if needed. Store in paper envelopes in cool and dry conditions as you would other seed. You can plant next spring, or if you become addicted to the corn -- plant for fall crops beginning in June/July.
If you have never had just picked corn, it is possible to eat the kernels fresh and uncooked right from the plant, they are that sweet just as picked. The reason so much research went into producing hybrid sweet corns is that the sugars begin to wane as soon as the corn is picked, so the researchers wanted sweet corn with staying power - enter the super sweets.
Also, unfortunately, chemical laboratories which wanted to produce franken-corn that would kill the corn worms from the inside by genticially producing corn seeds which contain insecticides.
Cooking Tips: Instead of boiling - a perfectly fine way of cooking too -- grill your corn - as with all vegetables roasted or grilled the super hot cooking process condenses all the sugars for super taste.
CORN SILK:
To roast or grill corn, you want to gently pull back the husks, remove the silks, pull the husks back over the corn, soak a few minutes in water and toss on the grill. (You can also make flavored butters to brush on before replacing the husks or after you pull them off the grill.)
SAVE THE SILK - I love recycling particularly when you get to use some food part you might otherwise through away. Make corn silk tea! An old 'herb' remedy for arthritis and bladder infections (and a new one to me - I'm always learning something!), I happened to catch the reference in Jan/Feb 2011 issue of Food Network magazine. Chef Jeff Smedstad of Elote Cafe in Sedona, runs through a couple of hundred ears of corn each night and saves the silks to brew up some tea for his staffs' stiff and achy joints. Way to go Chef Smedstad! (2/3 cup of silk, 16 oz of water. Simmer 10 minutes and strain - you can also add a bit of lemon and honey to taste.)
BACK TO THE PEAS - if you chose to grow the sugar peas with the corn, continue to harvest the peas until they stop producing. Allow the pea vines to dry out completely before removing (this makes sure the available nitrogen gets fully into the soil - or turn the vines back into the soil with a pitchfork). Pull the corn stalks when you are finished harvesting all the corn and 'seed' ears.
I hope you enjoy your patch of corn and beans! And, don't forget the silk tea for all those gardeners' aches.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Spray for Aphids Followup
Dear Folks,
Janet wrote: Aphid comment: I tried the safe soap solution which didn't work. But a combination mixed with NEEM oil did the trick immediately! I highly recommend spraying plants with aphids with a NEEM Oil soluion.
Janet is correct that neem oil can certainly be a component of the safe soap spray, but IF the original spray did not work, it may be due to not reapplying it to break the egg/hatch/birth cycle. Since egg producing aphids function on a 7-day life cycle it is important to reapply the spray every 5 days for a total of 3 times. It is always best to spray (make sure to get underside of leaves and down the center of growth as well as the top of the leaves) in the twilight to avoid sunburn to the plants.
Live-birth varieties of aphids can be even more of a problem, and the 3 times process really needs to be followed for control.
If there is any residue of spray when you harvest - simply rinse off the leaves or fruits.
Happy gardening!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Janet wrote: Aphid comment: I tried the safe soap solution which didn't work. But a combination mixed with NEEM oil did the trick immediately! I highly recommend spraying plants with aphids with a NEEM Oil soluion.
Janet is correct that neem oil can certainly be a component of the safe soap spray, but IF the original spray did not work, it may be due to not reapplying it to break the egg/hatch/birth cycle. Since egg producing aphids function on a 7-day life cycle it is important to reapply the spray every 5 days for a total of 3 times. It is always best to spray (make sure to get underside of leaves and down the center of growth as well as the top of the leaves) in the twilight to avoid sunburn to the plants.
Live-birth varieties of aphids can be even more of a problem, and the 3 times process really needs to be followed for control.
If there is any residue of spray when you harvest - simply rinse off the leaves or fruits.
Happy gardening!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Hail Coming? Storm Front Will Drop Temperatures.
Dear Folks,
With the low pressure and storm front moving in tonight bringing about 20 degree overall cooler temperatures to the valley for Monday, this is the kind of weather change that could bring hail during the 'rainy' part of the storm.
If you have tender seedlings, prepare to cover them as necessary to keep them from being pounded. I don't expect freezing temperatures, just one of those seasonal transitional hail possibilities.
I am always a little more cautious about hail after the spring/summer hail storm we experienced some years ago which flattened everything in the garden except the trees (and they took a pounding).
A footnote to that storm was the growth of my 7 foot wide basil plant. Although I don't want you to look forward to such a reaction, what happened was the flattened stems rooted out and up and became this enormous basil the likes I have not seen since.
While you are watching out for things, don't forget the aphids of spring! The hard freeze kept their numbers under control in my gardens, but my customers have told me about major infestations. Keep the safe soap sprays handy and use as soon as you see even minor activity.
The weather will be lovely again by the end of the week :-)
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
With the low pressure and storm front moving in tonight bringing about 20 degree overall cooler temperatures to the valley for Monday, this is the kind of weather change that could bring hail during the 'rainy' part of the storm.
If you have tender seedlings, prepare to cover them as necessary to keep them from being pounded. I don't expect freezing temperatures, just one of those seasonal transitional hail possibilities.
I am always a little more cautious about hail after the spring/summer hail storm we experienced some years ago which flattened everything in the garden except the trees (and they took a pounding).
A footnote to that storm was the growth of my 7 foot wide basil plant. Although I don't want you to look forward to such a reaction, what happened was the flattened stems rooted out and up and became this enormous basil the likes I have not seen since.
While you are watching out for things, don't forget the aphids of spring! The hard freeze kept their numbers under control in my gardens, but my customers have told me about major infestations. Keep the safe soap sprays handy and use as soon as you see even minor activity.
The weather will be lovely again by the end of the week :-)
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Don't Just Stand There - Plant Something!
Dear Folks,
Read my irregular newsletter on dealing with our intense summer heat, while getting into the garden to reduce stress and increase your success.
http://groups.google.com/group/edible-landscaping-in-the-desert-gl-gs-ge/browse_thread/thread/1e12c09dcbe269e6
Have a great day,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Read my irregular newsletter on dealing with our intense summer heat, while getting into the garden to reduce stress and increase your success.
http://groups.google.com/group/edible-landscaping-in-the-desert-gl-gs-ge/browse_thread/thread/1e12c09dcbe269e6
Have a great day,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Cold Weather Moving Out With A Crash and Graupel!
Dear Folks,
Our last really cold storm (I predict :-) for the winter is finishing up moving through the Valley. During the night my seedling racks were knocked over by the high winds! Happily I had moved most of the seedling trays to a shed in anticipation of the windy challenge, but some big pots and recently purchased tomato plants went sliding off, including just sprouted tomatoes, alpine strawberries and eggplant - darn - hoping I have not lost too many. After the first freeze in early January killed almost 100% of my starts, I re-started everything and here we are again -- oh well, such is the fickle nature of gardening you win some - you lose some.
I do like to remind myself that our growing season is so much longer than anywhere else I don't have a right to complain :-)What is graupel? A soft hail or snow pellet which shatters when it hits a hard surface - an interesting phenomenon we don't see very often. Unlike true hail this does not hurt when it hits you, similar to the texture of a snow ball made from new fallen snow, only pea-sized or smaller.
Two pictures we don't see very often in the valley - snow on the Superstition Mountains - by the time I did this blog it was mostly gone. And while some work is being done in the back yard (e.g. the saw horses) Deane got some good shots of the graupel - while it looks like hail it really is a tiny snow ball.
While I'm predicting an end to potential freezes - that does not mean we might not have an occasional hail storm in March, so have some protection ready in case mother nature throws us another cool one over the plate!
Have a great evening
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Friday, February 25, 2011
Frost - High Speed Artic Express Comin' On Through!
Dear Folks,
In case you have not caught the weather forecasts, there is a very fast moving "artic express" storm moving in Saturday afternoon, which could bring snow - yes snow, down below 2,000 feet when the cold air and the rain all hit at the same time late Saturday into Sunday morning. High winds are expected before the rain hits. Batten down the lawn furniture. Then on Tuesday / Wednesday we will be in the balmy 70s!
I don't expect killing freezes with this storm and it will be difficult to cover things up because of expected high winds and rain. If you have potted plants move them under evergreen big trees like citrus or onto the patio.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
In case you have not caught the weather forecasts, there is a very fast moving "artic express" storm moving in Saturday afternoon, which could bring snow - yes snow, down below 2,000 feet when the cold air and the rain all hit at the same time late Saturday into Sunday morning. High winds are expected before the rain hits. Batten down the lawn furniture. Then on Tuesday / Wednesday we will be in the balmy 70s!
I don't expect killing freezes with this storm and it will be difficult to cover things up because of expected high winds and rain. If you have potted plants move them under evergreen big trees like citrus or onto the patio.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Non-GMO Choice Voice - Open Letter to Grocery Chains
Dear Folks,
I am happy to pass on to you an organization which is championing the consumer in helping you choose non-gmo products and retailers.
Non GMO Project
"The Non-GMO Project is a non-profit multi-stakeholder collaboration committed to preserving and building sources of non-GMO products, educating consumers, and providing verified non-GMO choices.
Our shared belief is that everyone deserves an informed choice about whether or not to consume genetically modified organisms. We offer North America’s only third party verification and and labeling for non-GMO food and products." -- http://www.nongmoproject.org/
In my previous post(s) I encouraged you as the consumer to make your voice known about your right to choose whether you buy gmo goods or not. Here is a way for you to find retailers who support this right and / or find producers who espouse the same principal.
The foods/goods do not have to be organic (although many of them are) to choose to be non-gmo.
Information you need to be aware of: Because a producer or grower chooses to work with non-gmo goods does not mean they can give you a 100% guarantee that their goods or foods have not been contaminated with gmo pollen -- that possibility exists as long as Monsanto, their fellow laboratory engineers and the USDA and FDA choose to allow gmo planting without restriction.
BUT at least we head in the right direction by supporting the producers of the products we want and shopping with retailers who provide us with that information.
The "organic" movement began with a wish and a prayer decades ago and has blossomed into the better availability options we have today. This same 'consumer driven' spirit can make it clear to producers and retailers that we want that choice and we want it clearly labeled.
Remember that Kroger companies was one of the first to ban rBst from their stores. It can also happen with GMO labeling - IF WE all ask for it.
. . .
An OPEN LETTER TO MAJOR GROCERY RETAILERS
As a consumer who regularly purchases some of my foods and goods from your stores I want the right to know if they contain GMO products or components.
I want labeling to allow me to make informed choices.
This is no different than the labeling allowed for non rBst dairy products.
I want your company and stores to permit producers to label their products as non-gmo. And I want you to do more -- I want you to encourage your vendors to provide such labeling. If you do this and promote it in your ads, you WILL get my attention along with the millions and millions of us who regularly look for organic or naturally produced goods. If you clearly mark your natural and organic food shelves with NON-GMO signs - I will pay attention to that. If you clearly mark your produce in sections with NON-GMO signs - I will pay attention.
Thank you,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
I am happy to pass on to you an organization which is championing the consumer in helping you choose non-gmo products and retailers.
Non GMO Project
"The Non-GMO Project is a non-profit multi-stakeholder collaboration committed to preserving and building sources of non-GMO products, educating consumers, and providing verified non-GMO choices.
Our shared belief is that everyone deserves an informed choice about whether or not to consume genetically modified organisms. We offer North America’s only third party verification and and labeling for non-GMO food and products." -- http://www.nongmoproject.org/
In my previous post(s) I encouraged you as the consumer to make your voice known about your right to choose whether you buy gmo goods or not. Here is a way for you to find retailers who support this right and / or find producers who espouse the same principal.
The foods/goods do not have to be organic (although many of them are) to choose to be non-gmo.
Information you need to be aware of: Because a producer or grower chooses to work with non-gmo goods does not mean they can give you a 100% guarantee that their goods or foods have not been contaminated with gmo pollen -- that possibility exists as long as Monsanto, their fellow laboratory engineers and the USDA and FDA choose to allow gmo planting without restriction.
BUT at least we head in the right direction by supporting the producers of the products we want and shopping with retailers who provide us with that information.
The "organic" movement began with a wish and a prayer decades ago and has blossomed into the better availability options we have today. This same 'consumer driven' spirit can make it clear to producers and retailers that we want that choice and we want it clearly labeled.
Remember that Kroger companies was one of the first to ban rBst from their stores. It can also happen with GMO labeling - IF WE all ask for it.
. . .
An OPEN LETTER TO MAJOR GROCERY RETAILERS
As a consumer who regularly purchases some of my foods and goods from your stores I want the right to know if they contain GMO products or components.
I want labeling to allow me to make informed choices.
This is no different than the labeling allowed for non rBst dairy products.
I want your company and stores to permit producers to label their products as non-gmo. And I want you to do more -- I want you to encourage your vendors to provide such labeling. If you do this and promote it in your ads, you WILL get my attention along with the millions and millions of us who regularly look for organic or naturally produced goods. If you clearly mark your natural and organic food shelves with NON-GMO signs - I will pay attention to that. If you clearly mark your produce in sections with NON-GMO signs - I will pay attention.
Thank you,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Monday, February 07, 2011
Orange Ice - Low 42.6, High 43.3 Frost vs. Freeze
Dear Folks,
We have just come out of what is probably a recorder breaker for killing frost days in the valley of the sun. Some interesting statistics to look at but first look at our orange tree!
The icicles formed almost immediately when the sprinklers came on the morning of the 2nd, with the air temperatures still below 30. We saw the sprinklers come on, did not give it a complete second thought until Deane suddenly noticed all the 'white' floating through the air - the water was freezing immediately after exiting the watering head. By the time the system shut off we had a winter wonderland everywhere the sprinkler water hit.
So this leads me to an illustrative discussion of the difference between frost and freeze or "soft" frost vs. "hard" or killing frost.
Some temperatures over 7 days:
30th a "low" overnight temperature of 42.6
31st a "low" overnight of 34.9 *
1st a "low" of 29.5
2nd a "low" of 22.3 / a "high" of 43.3 (see the 30th for comparison)
3rd a "low" of 22.1
4th a "low" of 27.1
5th a "low" of 34.3 *
When we have "soft" frost or temperatures which do not breach below the 32 degree mark a simple cloth cover, garden cloche or simply moving potted plants under something like the edge of trees or your patio is sufficient to protect all but the most tropical of plants because the damage is limited to vertical drop areas, i.e. only those exposed to chilly moist overhead air.
A "hard" or "killing" frost / freeze creates air temperatures so cold it moves horizontally and covering or simply moving them to patios is not sufficient to protect them. They need air warmer than 32 degrees to avoid damage. A frost/freeze is considered hard or killing when the below 32 degree temperature exceeds 4 hours.
As I checked temperatures on the evenings of the below 30s nights last week, the temperatures at 7:30 or 8 p.m. were already in the mid to low 30s, not a good sign. We can presume that the sustained below 30 temperatures lasted from at least late evening until approximately 9 or 10 a.m. the next morning depending on your elevation and proximity to city centers (the heat island affect produced by large amounts of concrete / asphalt pavement and structures which act as heat sinks retaining more heat -- also the reason why city centers in the valley are hotter in the summer).
Our ground actually froze in places during this freeze event. Any area which was generally shaded most of the day (north of the trees) stayed frozen or the ice did not thaw for 3 days.
* I make a note of these two temperature days because while they were above 32, depending on your garden zones -- most residential and commercial properties have zones, a result either of changes in elevation or just location vis-a-vis large plantings or structures. I have registered 35 on my high/low gauge and come out to find frost on the lawn some winter days. Some of this has a lot to do with how high the humidity is, but also that some parts of our property are just cooler than others.
I mention this because as I have written about on a regular basis for years, if the overnight temperature is forecast at 40 or lower, you should protect your sensitive plants with cloth covers or move potted ones under trees or the patio cover, since the temperature can drop as much as 8 degrees from about 11 p.m. to dawn the next morning.
By the way our location generally runs about 4-8 degrees cooler than the official Sky Harbor readings, and during this freeze we generally were 8 degrees cooler. Brrrrrrr. (I am no longer tolerant of this kind of cold.)
FROST DAMAGE.
DO - NOT - TOUCH - Frost damaged plants, yet. In the first freeze in January my peacock geranium was hit hard, but there was green growth at the base. With this last freeze, more of the plant was damaged, but there is a tiny bit of green still at the base.
If you are wise and do not touch your frost damaged plants until the end of this month, you have a greater chance of keeping the plant alive. Beginning in the first week of March you can gradually begin to take off the damage - I like to work in a circle removing about a 5th of the damage at a time, gradually exposing the underneath to the sun.
CITRUS TREES
Our Citrus trees sustained damage, but at the moment the damaged appears to be minor. Deane is more worried about the peach and apricot trees which had started to bud out just before the freeze and this kind of hard cold can kill the flowers which in turn reduces the amount of fruit later.
Again, he will not look at pruning damage from the trees until the end of the month or later.
OTHER PLANTS
Twice now our nasturtiums took hits from freezes with most of the plants turning to mush. The larger ones regenerated from the base after January's freeze, waiting to see if that happens this time.
My racks of seedlings got hit hard, so I have re-started more plants and some of the first settings appear to be coming back.
The strawberries, pansies and garlic appear to be okay. The sorrel took a hit as did the catnip but do not appear to have been compromised. Sugar cane took hits but they come back quickly, as does the lemon grass which looks like last years grass at this point.
My three scented geraniums, Peacock, rose attar and chocolate mint all took very hard hits but there is green growth at the bases so I am hopeful.
My Mexican Oregano and Lemon Verbena were hit very hard by the January frost damaging, respectively, about 5 feet and 3 feet of top growth. This last freeze has damaged even more. As they are over 5 years old I am hoping the root structure is sufficiently strong enough that I won't lose them - two of my very favorite herbs.
So I will see what the garden holds for us over the next 3-4 weeks in return growth or 'oh well' need to replant issues.
Have a great week,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
We have just come out of what is probably a recorder breaker for killing frost days in the valley of the sun. Some interesting statistics to look at but first look at our orange tree!
The icicles formed almost immediately when the sprinklers came on the morning of the 2nd, with the air temperatures still below 30. We saw the sprinklers come on, did not give it a complete second thought until Deane suddenly noticed all the 'white' floating through the air - the water was freezing immediately after exiting the watering head. By the time the system shut off we had a winter wonderland everywhere the sprinkler water hit.So this leads me to an illustrative discussion of the difference between frost and freeze or "soft" frost vs. "hard" or killing frost.
Some temperatures over 7 days:
30th a "low" overnight temperature of 42.6
31st a "low" overnight of 34.9 *
1st a "low" of 29.5
2nd a "low" of 22.3 / a "high" of 43.3 (see the 30th for comparison)
3rd a "low" of 22.1
4th a "low" of 27.1
5th a "low" of 34.3 *
When we have "soft" frost or temperatures which do not breach below the 32 degree mark a simple cloth cover, garden cloche or simply moving potted plants under something like the edge of trees or your patio is sufficient to protect all but the most tropical of plants because the damage is limited to vertical drop areas, i.e. only those exposed to chilly moist overhead air.
A "hard" or "killing" frost / freeze creates air temperatures so cold it moves horizontally and covering or simply moving them to patios is not sufficient to protect them. They need air warmer than 32 degrees to avoid damage. A frost/freeze is considered hard or killing when the below 32 degree temperature exceeds 4 hours.
As I checked temperatures on the evenings of the below 30s nights last week, the temperatures at 7:30 or 8 p.m. were already in the mid to low 30s, not a good sign. We can presume that the sustained below 30 temperatures lasted from at least late evening until approximately 9 or 10 a.m. the next morning depending on your elevation and proximity to city centers (the heat island affect produced by large amounts of concrete / asphalt pavement and structures which act as heat sinks retaining more heat -- also the reason why city centers in the valley are hotter in the summer).
Our ground actually froze in places during this freeze event. Any area which was generally shaded most of the day (north of the trees) stayed frozen or the ice did not thaw for 3 days.
* I make a note of these two temperature days because while they were above 32, depending on your garden zones -- most residential and commercial properties have zones, a result either of changes in elevation or just location vis-a-vis large plantings or structures. I have registered 35 on my high/low gauge and come out to find frost on the lawn some winter days. Some of this has a lot to do with how high the humidity is, but also that some parts of our property are just cooler than others.
I mention this because as I have written about on a regular basis for years, if the overnight temperature is forecast at 40 or lower, you should protect your sensitive plants with cloth covers or move potted ones under trees or the patio cover, since the temperature can drop as much as 8 degrees from about 11 p.m. to dawn the next morning.
By the way our location generally runs about 4-8 degrees cooler than the official Sky Harbor readings, and during this freeze we generally were 8 degrees cooler. Brrrrrrr. (I am no longer tolerant of this kind of cold.)
FROST DAMAGE.
DO - NOT - TOUCH - Frost damaged plants, yet. In the first freeze in January my peacock geranium was hit hard, but there was green growth at the base. With this last freeze, more of the plant was damaged, but there is a tiny bit of green still at the base.
If you are wise and do not touch your frost damaged plants until the end of this month, you have a greater chance of keeping the plant alive. Beginning in the first week of March you can gradually begin to take off the damage - I like to work in a circle removing about a 5th of the damage at a time, gradually exposing the underneath to the sun.
CITRUS TREES
Our Citrus trees sustained damage, but at the moment the damaged appears to be minor. Deane is more worried about the peach and apricot trees which had started to bud out just before the freeze and this kind of hard cold can kill the flowers which in turn reduces the amount of fruit later.
Again, he will not look at pruning damage from the trees until the end of the month or later.
OTHER PLANTS
Twice now our nasturtiums took hits from freezes with most of the plants turning to mush. The larger ones regenerated from the base after January's freeze, waiting to see if that happens this time.
My racks of seedlings got hit hard, so I have re-started more plants and some of the first settings appear to be coming back.
The strawberries, pansies and garlic appear to be okay. The sorrel took a hit as did the catnip but do not appear to have been compromised. Sugar cane took hits but they come back quickly, as does the lemon grass which looks like last years grass at this point.
My three scented geraniums, Peacock, rose attar and chocolate mint all took very hard hits but there is green growth at the bases so I am hopeful.
My Mexican Oregano and Lemon Verbena were hit very hard by the January frost damaging, respectively, about 5 feet and 3 feet of top growth. This last freeze has damaged even more. As they are over 5 years old I am hoping the root structure is sufficiently strong enough that I won't lose them - two of my very favorite herbs.
So I will see what the garden holds for us over the next 3-4 weeks in return growth or 'oh well' need to replant issues.
Have a great week,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Wednesday, February 02, 2011
Greening - Did The USDA Just Approve GMO Contamination of Organic Foods?
Dear Folks,
For those of you who may not be familiar with the term GMO it stands for Genetically Modified Organism sometimes referred to and Genetically Engineered Organism or “Transgenic”.
On January 28, 2011, Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack announced that the United State Department of Agriculture (USDA) had approved the unrestricted planting of genetically modified alfalfa sold by Monsanto Co. and Forge Genetics. (Called RRA which stands for Roundup Ready Alfalfa.)
This very, very controversial decision by the USDA may well result in their tacit approval to contamination of all organic and naturally grown (no chemicals) foods by GMOs.
A bit of history about the phrase genetically modified or genetically engineered.
If a rose grower wants to develop a new rose with a prettier flower or longer stems he or she would manually cross pollinate two plants with some of the features they were looking for. Each successive generation would be cross pollinated with other roses which had stronger versions of the feature sought until finally the rose grower had “the” rose he was looking for. That is a form of genetic engineering that has been around for centuries, used in not only plants but also livestock, dogs (the original dog a wild wolf-type is the direct ancestor of all dogs), cats (some horrible mutations resulting that some people think are ‘cute”) and birds.
The problem with the current GMO and GEO ‘manufacturing’ is that the scientists are not staying with in species but going outside to cross plants (and animals) with bacteria, pesticides and even insects (if you want to scare yourself google transgenic spider and goat).
All of these experiments are touted as better for us: more pest resistant crops, stronger garments, supposedly better yields and supposedly cheaper in the long run for the consumer.
Due to the dominance of huge chemical companies like Monsanto, Dow and Schering-Plough the FDA under its GRAS rules (Generally Recognized As Safe) decided that GMO components are not required to be labeled as such and therefore the ONLY current way to know you are not consuming GMO/GEO foods is to buy organic. Or maybe you can’t rely on that any longer with the approval of RRA!
If you eat eggs, meat, cheese or drink milk, at some point in time the chickens or cows probably ate alfalfa.
Under the stringent standards created by the USDA for certified organic foods, no part of the component stream of the final product can contain GMO or GEO foods.
Prior to the decision by Secretay Vilsack to approve RRA, he released a letter to the agriculture community. In it he said:
“Therefore, we have an obligation to carefully consider USDA’s 2,300 page EIS, which acknowledges the potential of cross-fertilization to non-GE alfalfa from GE alfalfa – a significant concern for farmers who produce for non-GE markets at home and abroad.” --USDA Secretary VIlsack Urges GE and Non-GE Coexistance - January 8, 2011
http://www.usda.gov/documents/GE_Alfalfa-to_stakeholders-2010Dec.pdf
Vilsack then approved the use of RRA on January 28, 2011.
The almost immediate impact of the approval of RRA will be on Organic Milk Producers and consumers of Organic Milk. Why?
Because of those stringent guidelines for approval and maintenance of the USDA Certified Organic Program. Why?
Remember the statement above by USDA Secretary Vilsack “acknowledges the potential of cross-fertilization to non-GE alfalfa from GE alfalfa.”
"Many Americans became familiar with GM contamination in September 2000, when StarLink® corn, a potentially allergenic GM variety not approved for human consumption, was found in taco shells and other corn products. Planted to less than 1 percent of the nation’s corn acreage, StarLink was found in 22 percent of the corn samples tested by the USDA and prompted the recall of more than 300 food brands. After an extensive program to remove it, three years later StarLink still showed up in more than 1 percent of corn samples."
http://www.seedsofdeception.com/Public/Newsletter/Oct04Myth-NecessityofGMFreeZone/index.cfm
Corn pollen is considered one of the heavier pollens and therefore except for bee pollination, wind drift of pollen could be considered to be limited to a 2 mile radius.
With alfalfa having a much lighter pollen, some analysts consider that between wind drift and bee pollination (bees love alfalfa) the range could be 16 miles!
At some point down the road from the approval of RRA one of two scenarios will occur with Organic Milk Producers:
1) you will be drinking organic milk contaminated by Monsanto RRA alfalfa
OR
2) the frequent tests and inspections required by the USDA Organic program will turn up the contamination and the dairy is either fined to oblivion or required to drop out of the Organic program for 5-7 years until they re-satisfy the basic certification requirements.
Not one to refrain from talking out of both sides of its mouth, the USDA will have approved a chemical and removed a food all at the same time.
There are some preventative steps consumers and natural and organic food producers can do – I discuss these at the end of this blog.
Some litigation history.
GMO seeds are patented and tightly enforced by the patent holder. Monsanto being one of the largest producers of GMO seed, is usually at the forefront in ‘protecting’ their patents.
There are some very sad stories about farmers who thought they were getting a good deal when entering into agreements with Monsanto to participate in their GMO seed programs. I am not going to address these here in this blog, but suffice it to say that they read like selling their souls to the devil.
Reminds me of an old Coke-Cola story about a little café owner who decided to no longer carrry Coke-Cola. He was required to take down and return all of Coke’s signage and equipment – fair enough. But it got worse after that - the company representatives visited him and said that since he had prior sold their product that he was now required to post large signs stating his soda was NOT coke-cola and to explain that to customers. I don’t know how that turned out for him but when a big company hammers a little guy over the head with their legal department you know how that usually comes out.
Back to litigation by the big guys. Along the path of Monsanto getting the USDA to approve its RRA, they were involved in a lawsuit over the RRA that made its way to the Supreme Court, and only missed being won completely by Monsanto on the basis of the huge report Vilsack reportedly used as a basis for the final approval - namely the case turned on the fact that the report was not available and further ‘study’ was needed on the issue of the use of RRA.
Two comments from the case are notable for the current and rising concern on the inability of any GMO seed to be kept within its boundaries and also who is benefitting from either the use of seed or who buys organic products.
Monsanto v. Geertson Seed Farms
In one of the most amazing (in my opinion – Catherine) statements of under-education uttered by a sitting Judge – Justice Antonin Scalia appeared unconvinced by the respondents’ reasoning during oral arguments and stated: “This isn’t contamination of New York City’s water supply…This is not the end of the world, it really isn’t. He went on: “The most it does is affect the farmers who want to cater to the European markets”
Scalia was making reference to the oft - repeated statement by the chemical giants that the only reason for organic farming is our export to countries like Japan which has a zero-tolerance policy for GMO foods. Got that! Your purchases of organic or naturally produced foods by US farmers in your community does not count.
[Commenting on the Geertson case] ...Gregory Shaffer, a professor at the University of Minnesota Law School, cross-pollination is a risk for organic farms and can prevent goods from being certified organic. "There is some talk about building buffers between the fields," said Shaffer. "It depends on the crop, but there are ways to create buffers to stop cross-pollination."
http://www.law.com/jsp/cc/PubArticleCC.jsp?id=1202463170985
You can’t build a buffer to bees.
Despite Scalia’s amazingly short-sighted comment, the USDA would disagree with him:
In 2008, U.S. producers dedicated approximately 4.6 million acres of crop land, rangeland, and pasture to certified organic production, more than double the 1.8 million certified acres in 2000, according to ERS estimates (see box, “Tracking the Trends in Organic Agriculture”).Certified organic crop land increased 41 percent between 2000 and 2005and was up 51 percent between 2005 and 2008, reaching over 2.2 million acres. The organic livestock sector grew even faster during this period, with the largest gains in organic dairy and egg production. Certified organic milk cows increased steadily from approximately 87,000 animals in 2000 to over 200,000 in 2008, and organic layer hens grew from 2.4 million to 348 million. Nonetheless, U.S. organic crop acreage accounted for less than 1 percent of total crop acreage in2008, much lower than that in many other countries, including Switzerland (11 percent in 2007), Italy (9 percent), Uruguay (over 6 percent), UK (over 4 percent) and Mexico (nearly 3 percent).
According to the Nutrition Business Journal, U.S. organic food sales are expected to reach $25 billion in 2010, up from $3.6 billion in 1997.
--Economic Research Service of The United States Department of Agriculture
http://www.ers.usda.gov/AmberWaves/june10/Features/AmericasOrganicFarmers.htm
In a now famous case, where Monsanto sought to enforce its patent against a farmer who was not a participant in its program, Monsanto sadly won, although the defendant was not required to pay damages to the company.
Monsanto v. Percy Schmeiser
The judgment along with previous ones upon which it was built has been interpreted by many to mean that if any RR crop is found on agricultural land wherein it was not specifically purchased even if it found its way there through entirely natural means such as wind or insect pollination, the farmer is liable to Monsanto for "theft" of its property. That at least seems to be the goal of Monsanto.
Schmeiser was not required to pay Monsanto any damages due to the fact that he had not profited from the "infringement".
Various views and opinions of Monsanto’s suit against Schmeiser essentially boiled down to the Monsanto-view theory that if their GMO product wound up on your land, it was your responsibility to either pay them for it or remove it at your own expense. This view is confirmed by a statement made by a company employee following the Schmeiser decision.
"Monsanto's Jordan said the company isn't concerned that Schmeiser won't have to pay. "The important aspect of this particular case was intellectual property, not any sort of monetary gain," she said. "The ruling affirms the way that we do business". Of course Monsanto had been seeking hundreds of thousands of dollars in "damages".
http://www.sourcewatch.org/index.php?title=Goliath_and_David:_Monsanto%27s_Legal_Battles_against_Farmers
Possible Remedial Actions:
If you are a natural or Organic grower or producer of non-GMO food products you can take a ‘leaf’ from Monsanto’s legal notebook and set up an in-expensive early defense prophylactic. (I avoid being crude but this seems to fit in this situation!) More on this suggestions below.
If you are a consumer of natural, Organic or prefer not to buy GMO/GEO products - let the vendors and suppliers (grocery stores) you deal with know in clear and unequivocal terms that you want GMO containing foods labeled as such so you can make your own choices. This is not out of the question as it has been done before - usually by a labeling statement which reads “does not contain.”
When consumers started to become alarmed about the use of “rBGH” (“Bovine Growth Hormone used to cause the cows to produce more milk aka rBST) first came producers who did NOT use it labeling the milk as such. Then came grocery chains like Kroger (Frys) and Safeway who banned rBGH-milk and dairy products from their stores. Oh and you know who developed and sold rBGH to dairies? Monsanto.
And it may not be easy to get stores to do this but you the consumer have a lot of power.
Seed and organic or natural food producers have some of the “does not contain” options available to them, but may generate the kind of brutal legal battle Monsanto is capable of, attacking those who do not want GMO or GEO contaminants and want to tell their customers so.
Monsanto has responded to this trend by lobbying state governments to ban the practice of distinguishing between milk from farms pledged not to use rBST and those that do --The New York Times
Monsanto sued Oakhurst Dairy of Maine over their use of a label which pledged to not use artificial growth hormones. The dairy stated that their disagreement was not over the scientific evidence for the safety of rBST (Monsanto's complaint about the label), but "We're in the business of marketing milk, not Monsanto's drugs." The suit was settled when the dairy agreed to add a qualifying statement to their label: "FDA states: No significant difference in milk from cows treated with artificial growth hormones." The FDA recommends this additional labeling but does not require it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bovine_somatotropin
GROWERS AND FOOD PRODUCERS
The “Leaf” from the legal notebook of Monsanto.
According to one source on the internt Monsanto sent out over 200 ‘cease and desist’ letters to farmers they accused of using their GMO seed without payment or permission.
Let’s take a scenario where you grow and sell organic or non-GMO seed to consumers (like me) or retailers like plant nurserys. You have signed the voluntary “safe seed pledge” (Consumers: look for that SSP particularly on the internet sites.) and you just found out some of your farming neighbors or farmers in your community have entered one of Monsanto’s SYSTTD* GMO programs, or that a feed store or seed dealer in your community has agreed to be Monsanto’s distributor.
Since Monsanto readily accuses farmers of theft of intellectual property - you assert your rights to “Not Trespass” and turn the responsibility back on the farmers, dealers and Monsanto with a letter, reminding them of THEIR responsibility to contain their product and YOUR remedies under the law, which include claims of criminal trespass, criminal or civil negligence, and toxic trespass.
At the very end of this blog I will give you a sample letter to send out. I can’t give you legal advice and you should not take this blog as such. Most of you have some kind of legal representation or you can avail yourself of paid assistance from your local Legal Aid, county attorney community legal assistance programs or perhaps the ACLU would want to get involved, after all it seems completely unfair that you might be victimized by damage and loss due to contamination from something you want no part in and then be made to pay THEM.
*Sell Your Soul To The Devil
Legal Theory and A Case.
Don’t expect any help from the USDA or the FDA – while they supposedly want to promote and support organic agriculture they appear to be more interested in supporting major corporations than consumers.
Trespass
As a general matter, trespass is actionable without proof of damage, whereas negligence is not.
Alert your neighbor, seed dealer and Monsanto (or the manufacturer of the seed) that you will not allow or tolerate trespass of their seed or plant material on your land.
Before you send the letter have plant samples genetically tested from your farm. Soil and plant testing laboratories are in all states.
Negligence
Common Law on negligence was unclear (at best) until Lord Atkins' speech in Donoghue v Stevenson 1932. In this case, he expounded the `neighbour principle': that a man has a`duty of care' to those people whom it is reasonably foreseeable that his actions will affect. If he fails adequately to discharge that duty, then he will be liable for any adverse consequences that flow from his failure.
This judgement did not immediately catch the attention of other judges; it took about a decade before the `neighbour principle' became entrenched in judicial thinking. When it did, the law of negligence largely assumed the form it has today. In brief, to sustain a claim in negligence, the claimant must show that he was owed a Duty of care by the defendant, and that the defendant was in Breach of the duty of care, and the breach was the cause of the defendant's loss or injury.
http://lawiki.org/lawwiki/Negligence
In your letter remind your neighbor, dealer and Monsanto about their neighborly obligation of Duty of Care to contain their crop and they are take whatever action is needed to guarantee that cross pollination will not occur, and that you have the right to sue for the damage should it occur on your property.
A Case History:
Toxic Trespass: Organic Farm Can Seek Damages from Pesticide Company
By Kurtis Alexander
Santa Cruz Sentinel, December 22, 2010
Jacobs Farm/Del Cabo, Inc. v.Western Farm Service, Inc.
"This week, California's Sixth Appellate District Court upheld Jacob's right to sue the pesticide applicator, Western Farm Service, and let stand the $1 million award a jury handed Jacobs two years ago. The ruling becomes final in 30 days.
http://www.organicconsumers.org/articles/article_22249.cfm
Here is a case that began when the Jacobs sale of product to Whole Foods was rejected because when tested it came back as containing pesticides. Since Mr. Jacobs asserted in the suit that he discovered he was allergic 40 years prior t pesticides and made a specific point of never using pesticides, the only possible source was his neighbor farmer who hired the services of Western Farm Service, who sprayed the Jacobs farm.
PRODUCER SAMPLE LETTER TO SHOW TO YOUR LEGAL COUNSEL
Dear Neighbor,
It has come to my attention that you have decided to grow Genetically Modified Seed (or sell it) in my neighborhood or community.
You may not know that my farm/ranch is Organically Certified (or that I am committed to growing seed / plants in a natural manner without chemicals) and that I chose to not use any GMO products.
Because of this I need to remind you of your obligation to prevent nuisance cross-pollination or wind drift or other potential contamination points from your operation to my farm.
Under the trespass and negligence laws of our state, I would have legal recourse under those statutes as well as other possible remedies at law to compensate me for any damage or loss whatsoever.
I hope by sending this letter no legal action would ever be required as you accept your legal obligation to limit contamination from your GMO product.
Thank you for your attention to this matter,
Yours truly,
A..Farmer [be sure to review this with your legal counsel]
. . .
As consumers we have the power to create change for the good, but you have to do something. Start a letter writing campaign to your grocers and local farm agencies that you want to know when something contains GMOs, and that you want your organic or natural foods TO BE organic and natural. You want the choice to consumer GMOs or not.
Buy only seeds you know are labeled as not containing GMOs. There a dozens of seed suppliers who signed the Safe Seed Pledge to now knowingly sell or transfer plants or seeds containing GMOs.
“Don’t Just Stand There, Plant Something!” – Arizona Nursery Association
Keep warm, the nicer weather returns next week,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
For those of you who may not be familiar with the term GMO it stands for Genetically Modified Organism sometimes referred to and Genetically Engineered Organism or “Transgenic”.
On January 28, 2011, Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack announced that the United State Department of Agriculture (USDA) had approved the unrestricted planting of genetically modified alfalfa sold by Monsanto Co. and Forge Genetics. (Called RRA which stands for Roundup Ready Alfalfa.)
This very, very controversial decision by the USDA may well result in their tacit approval to contamination of all organic and naturally grown (no chemicals) foods by GMOs.
A bit of history about the phrase genetically modified or genetically engineered.
If a rose grower wants to develop a new rose with a prettier flower or longer stems he or she would manually cross pollinate two plants with some of the features they were looking for. Each successive generation would be cross pollinated with other roses which had stronger versions of the feature sought until finally the rose grower had “the” rose he was looking for. That is a form of genetic engineering that has been around for centuries, used in not only plants but also livestock, dogs (the original dog a wild wolf-type is the direct ancestor of all dogs), cats (some horrible mutations resulting that some people think are ‘cute”) and birds.
The problem with the current GMO and GEO ‘manufacturing’ is that the scientists are not staying with in species but going outside to cross plants (and animals) with bacteria, pesticides and even insects (if you want to scare yourself google transgenic spider and goat).
All of these experiments are touted as better for us: more pest resistant crops, stronger garments, supposedly better yields and supposedly cheaper in the long run for the consumer.
Due to the dominance of huge chemical companies like Monsanto, Dow and Schering-Plough the FDA under its GRAS rules (Generally Recognized As Safe) decided that GMO components are not required to be labeled as such and therefore the ONLY current way to know you are not consuming GMO/GEO foods is to buy organic. Or maybe you can’t rely on that any longer with the approval of RRA!
If you eat eggs, meat, cheese or drink milk, at some point in time the chickens or cows probably ate alfalfa.
Under the stringent standards created by the USDA for certified organic foods, no part of the component stream of the final product can contain GMO or GEO foods.
Prior to the decision by Secretay Vilsack to approve RRA, he released a letter to the agriculture community. In it he said:
“Therefore, we have an obligation to carefully consider USDA’s 2,300 page EIS, which acknowledges the potential of cross-fertilization to non-GE alfalfa from GE alfalfa – a significant concern for farmers who produce for non-GE markets at home and abroad.” --USDA Secretary VIlsack Urges GE and Non-GE Coexistance - January 8, 2011
http://www.usda.gov/documents/GE_Alfalfa-to_stakeholders-2010Dec.pdf
Vilsack then approved the use of RRA on January 28, 2011.
The almost immediate impact of the approval of RRA will be on Organic Milk Producers and consumers of Organic Milk. Why?
Because of those stringent guidelines for approval and maintenance of the USDA Certified Organic Program. Why?
Remember the statement above by USDA Secretary Vilsack “acknowledges the potential of cross-fertilization to non-GE alfalfa from GE alfalfa.”
"Many Americans became familiar with GM contamination in September 2000, when StarLink® corn, a potentially allergenic GM variety not approved for human consumption, was found in taco shells and other corn products. Planted to less than 1 percent of the nation’s corn acreage, StarLink was found in 22 percent of the corn samples tested by the USDA and prompted the recall of more than 300 food brands. After an extensive program to remove it, three years later StarLink still showed up in more than 1 percent of corn samples."
http://www.seedsofdeception.com/Public/Newsletter/Oct04Myth-NecessityofGMFreeZone/index.cfm
Corn pollen is considered one of the heavier pollens and therefore except for bee pollination, wind drift of pollen could be considered to be limited to a 2 mile radius.
With alfalfa having a much lighter pollen, some analysts consider that between wind drift and bee pollination (bees love alfalfa) the range could be 16 miles!
At some point down the road from the approval of RRA one of two scenarios will occur with Organic Milk Producers:
1) you will be drinking organic milk contaminated by Monsanto RRA alfalfa
OR
2) the frequent tests and inspections required by the USDA Organic program will turn up the contamination and the dairy is either fined to oblivion or required to drop out of the Organic program for 5-7 years until they re-satisfy the basic certification requirements.
Not one to refrain from talking out of both sides of its mouth, the USDA will have approved a chemical and removed a food all at the same time.
There are some preventative steps consumers and natural and organic food producers can do – I discuss these at the end of this blog.
Some litigation history.
GMO seeds are patented and tightly enforced by the patent holder. Monsanto being one of the largest producers of GMO seed, is usually at the forefront in ‘protecting’ their patents.
There are some very sad stories about farmers who thought they were getting a good deal when entering into agreements with Monsanto to participate in their GMO seed programs. I am not going to address these here in this blog, but suffice it to say that they read like selling their souls to the devil.
Reminds me of an old Coke-Cola story about a little café owner who decided to no longer carrry Coke-Cola. He was required to take down and return all of Coke’s signage and equipment – fair enough. But it got worse after that - the company representatives visited him and said that since he had prior sold their product that he was now required to post large signs stating his soda was NOT coke-cola and to explain that to customers. I don’t know how that turned out for him but when a big company hammers a little guy over the head with their legal department you know how that usually comes out.
Back to litigation by the big guys. Along the path of Monsanto getting the USDA to approve its RRA, they were involved in a lawsuit over the RRA that made its way to the Supreme Court, and only missed being won completely by Monsanto on the basis of the huge report Vilsack reportedly used as a basis for the final approval - namely the case turned on the fact that the report was not available and further ‘study’ was needed on the issue of the use of RRA.
Two comments from the case are notable for the current and rising concern on the inability of any GMO seed to be kept within its boundaries and also who is benefitting from either the use of seed or who buys organic products.
Monsanto v. Geertson Seed Farms
In one of the most amazing (in my opinion – Catherine) statements of under-education uttered by a sitting Judge – Justice Antonin Scalia appeared unconvinced by the respondents’ reasoning during oral arguments and stated: “This isn’t contamination of New York City’s water supply…This is not the end of the world, it really isn’t. He went on: “The most it does is affect the farmers who want to cater to the European markets”
Scalia was making reference to the oft - repeated statement by the chemical giants that the only reason for organic farming is our export to countries like Japan which has a zero-tolerance policy for GMO foods. Got that! Your purchases of organic or naturally produced foods by US farmers in your community does not count.
[Commenting on the Geertson case] ...Gregory Shaffer, a professor at the University of Minnesota Law School, cross-pollination is a risk for organic farms and can prevent goods from being certified organic. "There is some talk about building buffers between the fields," said Shaffer. "It depends on the crop, but there are ways to create buffers to stop cross-pollination."
http://www.law.com/jsp/cc/PubArticleCC.jsp?id=1202463170985
You can’t build a buffer to bees.
Despite Scalia’s amazingly short-sighted comment, the USDA would disagree with him:
In 2008, U.S. producers dedicated approximately 4.6 million acres of crop land, rangeland, and pasture to certified organic production, more than double the 1.8 million certified acres in 2000, according to ERS estimates (see box, “Tracking the Trends in Organic Agriculture”).Certified organic crop land increased 41 percent between 2000 and 2005and was up 51 percent between 2005 and 2008, reaching over 2.2 million acres. The organic livestock sector grew even faster during this period, with the largest gains in organic dairy and egg production. Certified organic milk cows increased steadily from approximately 87,000 animals in 2000 to over 200,000 in 2008, and organic layer hens grew from 2.4 million to 348 million. Nonetheless, U.S. organic crop acreage accounted for less than 1 percent of total crop acreage in2008, much lower than that in many other countries, including Switzerland (11 percent in 2007), Italy (9 percent), Uruguay (over 6 percent), UK (over 4 percent) and Mexico (nearly 3 percent).
According to the Nutrition Business Journal, U.S. organic food sales are expected to reach $25 billion in 2010, up from $3.6 billion in 1997.
--Economic Research Service of The United States Department of Agriculture
http://www.ers.usda.gov/AmberWaves/june10/Features/AmericasOrganicFarmers.htm
In a now famous case, where Monsanto sought to enforce its patent against a farmer who was not a participant in its program, Monsanto sadly won, although the defendant was not required to pay damages to the company.
Monsanto v. Percy Schmeiser
The judgment along with previous ones upon which it was built has been interpreted by many to mean that if any RR crop is found on agricultural land wherein it was not specifically purchased even if it found its way there through entirely natural means such as wind or insect pollination, the farmer is liable to Monsanto for "theft" of its property. That at least seems to be the goal of Monsanto.
Schmeiser was not required to pay Monsanto any damages due to the fact that he had not profited from the "infringement".
Various views and opinions of Monsanto’s suit against Schmeiser essentially boiled down to the Monsanto-view theory that if their GMO product wound up on your land, it was your responsibility to either pay them for it or remove it at your own expense. This view is confirmed by a statement made by a company employee following the Schmeiser decision.
"Monsanto's Jordan said the company isn't concerned that Schmeiser won't have to pay. "The important aspect of this particular case was intellectual property, not any sort of monetary gain," she said. "The ruling affirms the way that we do business". Of course Monsanto had been seeking hundreds of thousands of dollars in "damages".
http://www.sourcewatch.org/index.php?title=Goliath_and_David:_Monsanto%27s_Legal_Battles_against_Farmers
Possible Remedial Actions:
If you are a natural or Organic grower or producer of non-GMO food products you can take a ‘leaf’ from Monsanto’s legal notebook and set up an in-expensive early defense prophylactic. (I avoid being crude but this seems to fit in this situation!) More on this suggestions below.
If you are a consumer of natural, Organic or prefer not to buy GMO/GEO products - let the vendors and suppliers (grocery stores) you deal with know in clear and unequivocal terms that you want GMO containing foods labeled as such so you can make your own choices. This is not out of the question as it has been done before - usually by a labeling statement which reads “does not contain.”
When consumers started to become alarmed about the use of “rBGH” (“Bovine Growth Hormone used to cause the cows to produce more milk aka rBST) first came producers who did NOT use it labeling the milk as such. Then came grocery chains like Kroger (Frys) and Safeway who banned rBGH-milk and dairy products from their stores. Oh and you know who developed and sold rBGH to dairies? Monsanto.
And it may not be easy to get stores to do this but you the consumer have a lot of power.
Seed and organic or natural food producers have some of the “does not contain” options available to them, but may generate the kind of brutal legal battle Monsanto is capable of, attacking those who do not want GMO or GEO contaminants and want to tell their customers so.
Monsanto has responded to this trend by lobbying state governments to ban the practice of distinguishing between milk from farms pledged not to use rBST and those that do --The New York Times
Monsanto sued Oakhurst Dairy of Maine over their use of a label which pledged to not use artificial growth hormones. The dairy stated that their disagreement was not over the scientific evidence for the safety of rBST (Monsanto's complaint about the label), but "We're in the business of marketing milk, not Monsanto's drugs." The suit was settled when the dairy agreed to add a qualifying statement to their label: "FDA states: No significant difference in milk from cows treated with artificial growth hormones." The FDA recommends this additional labeling but does not require it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bovine_somatotropin
GROWERS AND FOOD PRODUCERS
The “Leaf” from the legal notebook of Monsanto.
According to one source on the internt Monsanto sent out over 200 ‘cease and desist’ letters to farmers they accused of using their GMO seed without payment or permission.
Let’s take a scenario where you grow and sell organic or non-GMO seed to consumers (like me) or retailers like plant nurserys. You have signed the voluntary “safe seed pledge” (Consumers: look for that SSP particularly on the internet sites.) and you just found out some of your farming neighbors or farmers in your community have entered one of Monsanto’s SYSTTD* GMO programs, or that a feed store or seed dealer in your community has agreed to be Monsanto’s distributor.
Since Monsanto readily accuses farmers of theft of intellectual property - you assert your rights to “Not Trespass” and turn the responsibility back on the farmers, dealers and Monsanto with a letter, reminding them of THEIR responsibility to contain their product and YOUR remedies under the law, which include claims of criminal trespass, criminal or civil negligence, and toxic trespass.
At the very end of this blog I will give you a sample letter to send out. I can’t give you legal advice and you should not take this blog as such. Most of you have some kind of legal representation or you can avail yourself of paid assistance from your local Legal Aid, county attorney community legal assistance programs or perhaps the ACLU would want to get involved, after all it seems completely unfair that you might be victimized by damage and loss due to contamination from something you want no part in and then be made to pay THEM.
*Sell Your Soul To The Devil
Legal Theory and A Case.
Don’t expect any help from the USDA or the FDA – while they supposedly want to promote and support organic agriculture they appear to be more interested in supporting major corporations than consumers.
Trespass
As a general matter, trespass is actionable without proof of damage, whereas negligence is not.
Alert your neighbor, seed dealer and Monsanto (or the manufacturer of the seed) that you will not allow or tolerate trespass of their seed or plant material on your land.
Before you send the letter have plant samples genetically tested from your farm. Soil and plant testing laboratories are in all states.
Negligence
Common Law on negligence was unclear (at best) until Lord Atkins' speech in Donoghue v Stevenson 1932. In this case, he expounded the `neighbour principle': that a man has a`duty of care' to those people whom it is reasonably foreseeable that his actions will affect. If he fails adequately to discharge that duty, then he will be liable for any adverse consequences that flow from his failure.
This judgement did not immediately catch the attention of other judges; it took about a decade before the `neighbour principle' became entrenched in judicial thinking. When it did, the law of negligence largely assumed the form it has today. In brief, to sustain a claim in negligence, the claimant must show that he was owed a Duty of care by the defendant, and that the defendant was in Breach of the duty of care, and the breach was the cause of the defendant's loss or injury.
http://lawiki.org/lawwiki/Negligence
In your letter remind your neighbor, dealer and Monsanto about their neighborly obligation of Duty of Care to contain their crop and they are take whatever action is needed to guarantee that cross pollination will not occur, and that you have the right to sue for the damage should it occur on your property.
A Case History:
Toxic Trespass: Organic Farm Can Seek Damages from Pesticide Company
By Kurtis Alexander
Santa Cruz Sentinel, December 22, 2010
Jacobs Farm/Del Cabo, Inc. v.Western Farm Service, Inc.
"This week, California's Sixth Appellate District Court upheld Jacob's right to sue the pesticide applicator, Western Farm Service, and let stand the $1 million award a jury handed Jacobs two years ago. The ruling becomes final in 30 days.
http://www.organicconsumers.org/articles/article_22249.cfm
Here is a case that began when the Jacobs sale of product to Whole Foods was rejected because when tested it came back as containing pesticides. Since Mr. Jacobs asserted in the suit that he discovered he was allergic 40 years prior t pesticides and made a specific point of never using pesticides, the only possible source was his neighbor farmer who hired the services of Western Farm Service, who sprayed the Jacobs farm.
PRODUCER SAMPLE LETTER TO SHOW TO YOUR LEGAL COUNSEL
Dear Neighbor,
It has come to my attention that you have decided to grow Genetically Modified Seed (or sell it) in my neighborhood or community.
You may not know that my farm/ranch is Organically Certified (or that I am committed to growing seed / plants in a natural manner without chemicals) and that I chose to not use any GMO products.
Because of this I need to remind you of your obligation to prevent nuisance cross-pollination or wind drift or other potential contamination points from your operation to my farm.
Under the trespass and negligence laws of our state, I would have legal recourse under those statutes as well as other possible remedies at law to compensate me for any damage or loss whatsoever.
I hope by sending this letter no legal action would ever be required as you accept your legal obligation to limit contamination from your GMO product.
Thank you for your attention to this matter,
Yours truly,
A..Farmer [be sure to review this with your legal counsel]
. . .
As consumers we have the power to create change for the good, but you have to do something. Start a letter writing campaign to your grocers and local farm agencies that you want to know when something contains GMOs, and that you want your organic or natural foods TO BE organic and natural. You want the choice to consumer GMOs or not.
Buy only seeds you know are labeled as not containing GMOs. There a dozens of seed suppliers who signed the Safe Seed Pledge to now knowingly sell or transfer plants or seeds containing GMOs.
“Don’t Just Stand There, Plant Something!” – Arizona Nursery Association
Keep warm, the nicer weather returns next week,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
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