Dear Folks,
Weather Watch / ALERT! - Don't let the lovely temperatures this coming weekend distract you from frost protecting your tender plants. A system looks to be moving in around January 31st / February 1st that may drop day time temps into the 50s and night time temps below 32. Keep those frost and hail coverings available until mid-March. Pay attention to the overnight forecasts - if 40 or lower have the covers ready. Systems can speed up or stall changing the "landing" time.
SPECIAL WEATHER STATEMENT
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE PHOENIX AZ
343 AM MST FRI JAN 29 2016
...A COLD...WET...AND WINDY PACIFIC STORM EXPECTED TO MOVE INTO THE REGION LATE SUNDAY AFTERNOON AND SUNDAY NIGHT...
. . .
AS THE COLD FRONT APPROACHES...VERY WINDY WEATHER WITH GUSTS BETWEEN 40 AND 50 MPH ARE FORECAST TO DEVELOP OVER A LARGE PORTION OF
SOUTHEAST CALIFORNIA AND THE COLORADO RIVER SUNDAY AFTERNOON AND EVENING. THIS WILL BE FOLLOWED BY EARLY EVENING RAIN...WITH RAIN
AMOUNTS INTENSIFYING AS THE SYSTEM MOVES EAST INTO SOUTHWEST AND SOUTH CENTRAL ARIZONA...GENERALLY EAST OF THE COLORADO RIVER.
SNOW LEVELS ARE FORECAST TO DRAMATICALLY FALL BY LATE SUNDAY NIGHT...WITH RAIN CHANGING TO SNOW NEAR THE 3500 FOOT LEVEL BY EARLY
MONDAY MORNING. THE SNOW LEVEL WILL FINALLY DROP TO NEAR 3000 FEET MONDAY...WITH ANY SIGNIFICANT ACCUMULATION BEING CONFINED TO THE
MOUNTAINS OF SOUTHERN GILA COUNTY. IT IS POSSIBLE THAT BETWEEN 1 AND 3 INCHES OF SNOW COULD FALL ABOVE 4000 FEET IN SOUTHERN GILA
COUNTY BY MONDAY AFTERNOON...WITH 4 AND 6 INCHES BETWEEN 5000 AND 6000 FEET.
CLEARING SKIES AND MUCH COLDER WEATHER WILL RETURN TUESDAY THROUGH THURSDAY...BUT WITH NEAR FREEZING TEMPERATURES AT NIGHT ON THE LOWER DESERTS.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Friday, January 29, 2016
Tuesday, January 26, 2016
Free Lectures Coming Up! Mark Your Calendars - January 30th & February 20th
Dear Folks,
This coming Saturday I will be talking on the subject of Edible Flowers at the Old Town Scottsdale Farmers Market.
All of the beauty and usefulness of flowers can be found in Edible options instead of many pretty but toxic flowers. Come on out, see and learn all the variety to have something blooming in your gardens year round, for your enjoyment, along with the hummingbirds, butterflies, bees and other beneficial insects.
Old Town Scottsdale Farmers Market
Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 9 a.m.
3806 North Brown Avenue,
Scottsdale, Arizona
The transition time from late Winter to Early Spring in our desert gardens can be a bit of a challenge. Are we going to get frost? When is the last frost day? Do we sow seeds or transplant seedlings? What types/varieties of edibles should you plant?
I will address these and other factors for the gardener heading into spring and summer in the desert garden. Unlike 4-season areas, if you plant at the right time for the variety you can have an edible garden year round in the desert!
Mesa Urban Garden (MUG)
February 20, 2016 - 1:30 p.m.
Sow, Plant, "Mulch", Protect
Late Winter/Early Spring in The Desert
How To Grow Successfully
212 East 1st Avenue
Mesa, Arizona
I hope to see you at these events. Have a Best Day,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
This coming Saturday I will be talking on the subject of Edible Flowers at the Old Town Scottsdale Farmers Market.
All of the beauty and usefulness of flowers can be found in Edible options instead of many pretty but toxic flowers. Come on out, see and learn all the variety to have something blooming in your gardens year round, for your enjoyment, along with the hummingbirds, butterflies, bees and other beneficial insects.
Old Town Scottsdale Farmers Market
Saturday, January 30, 2016 - 9 a.m.
3806 North Brown Avenue,
Scottsdale, Arizona
The transition time from late Winter to Early Spring in our desert gardens can be a bit of a challenge. Are we going to get frost? When is the last frost day? Do we sow seeds or transplant seedlings? What types/varieties of edibles should you plant?
I will address these and other factors for the gardener heading into spring and summer in the desert garden. Unlike 4-season areas, if you plant at the right time for the variety you can have an edible garden year round in the desert!
Mesa Urban Garden (MUG)
February 20, 2016 - 1:30 p.m.
Sow, Plant, "Mulch", Protect
Late Winter/Early Spring in The Desert
How To Grow Successfully
212 East 1st Avenue
Mesa, Arizona
I hope to see you at these events. Have a Best Day,
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Saturday, January 23, 2016
Yesterday's Seed Share Q&A and a Free Children's Gardening Book From Baker Creek.
Dear Folks,
Yesterday turned out to be a great Free Seed Day!
Over 120 seed packages went to new homes and I got some great seeds in too - Thank you Jacq Davis for the Papaya and Moringa Seeds and a very nice young man who brought Passion Flower seeds for the Seed Bank.
I did a lot of Q & A and clarifying on frost protection, planting time and some soil questions. And, what about using shade cloth?
Shade Cloth or Planting in Shade. Here is the thing, if you plant at the right time for the variety, shading in any form except with a limited number of species, is not necessary. If it is edible it needs the sun, as much of it as can be accessed. Plant like strawberries and peppers benefit from a bit of the late afternoon shade, but still like about 6-8 hours of direct sun.
If you absolutely feel you must use shade cloth for whatever reason you have to understand how high to place it. Shade cloth too close to the tops of the plants holds in the heat, creating a HOTTER not cooler environment for the plants. Have you ever stood under an umbrella or ten canopy on a hot day and wondered why it felt hotter when you have "shade"? Same principle there is no air flow sufficient to minimized the radiant heat produced by a fabric when the sun is beating down on it. (There are exceptions like mylar coated tents or similar.) Most folks presume that because you can see through shade cloth there is air movement. Nope! There should be a good 4-6 feet clearance between the top of the tallest plant in the garden and the shade cloth to avoid heat retention.
Preferably it should be place directly over - or slightly to the west of the garden area so that the plants can get at least some of the sun they need.
Tomatoes - One of the gardener's Holy Grail of plants and worth it if you do somethings right in the desert garden.
To begin with, we get two growing seasons out of a tomato planted in January/February. Spring and fall. The pollen can't set in the middle of the summer when our night time temperatures are in the 80s. The fruit starts to set again as soon as those temps drop back in late August /early September.
Seeds or transplants need frost protection until mid-March (on the outside of the time frame). Tomatoes do not like cool/cold soil and will actually stop growing if we hit a couple of cool/overcast days. They will start growing again when the soil warms back up.
Unless you plan on planting a forest of tomatoes - many, many plants all planted close together - do NOT stake or cage them. Let them Sprawl. High up is hot and dry, low down is cooler and moister. The vines get very strong and will generally hold the fruit up off the ground without a problem. Usually the sprawling vines also cover the fruit well enough to keep them visually out of bird site. IF Fruit touches the ground, just slip an un-coated white paper plate under the fruit to keep off soil. Do the same thing with melons or squash or any fruit which touches the ground. Use can use a piece of wood or a brick instead. (Large growers frequently use straw for the same purpose.) The bacteria in our soil is great but also a problem for tender fruits, causing them to rot and attract bugs.
Amending Soil: First about our "native" soil, worms and moisture.
Looking at a very dry, hard as a rock area of backyard or land most folks just can't see what lies beneath. Worms and moisture! Where are they? About 3+ feet below where the moisture ensures the worms a hospitable home and they are NOT going to come up into the dry earth above until it is more welcoming.
How do I know this? Because 20 years ago when Deane decided to completely rework the barren (except for mallows following a rain), hard as a rock backyard, the only thing we got sticking a shovel into the earth was an occasional grub. No Worms. Period.
He brought in several tons of compost, used one of the huge tillers to work the property stem to stern, until the soil looked like black talcum powder, and then he watered, leveled and bermed the entire perimeter and started planting trees by digging enormous holes for each one - six feet to be exact.
Along the way down - he encountered impressive caliche (a chemical reaction between the intensity of the sun, and high mineral content of the soil and water) a couple of feet down and below that was moist soil with an occasional worm!
Fast forward 1 year and digging and working in this revitalized soil we started encountering worms. Fast forward to today and we can stick a spade into the worked areas and find 2-3 worms per spade or 8-12 per shovel full.
Amending is about bringing in "organics" like finished compost, well rotted manure and working them into the native soil to "fluff" and increase drainage. There are minerals in un-amended soil, along with microbs and beneficial fungus, which together with the healthy "living" compost and manure create a perfect recipe for happy plants.
Compost vs. Mulch
Compost is worked INTO the soil. Mulch is put ON TOP of the soil, to cool the soil, minimize evaporation and begin or help the process of creating a hospitable environment that those worms - remember them - will want to come up into, bringing their rototilling, manure spreading, reproduction activities into.
The reason for the BIG difference in where the mulch is placed comes down to this: wood chips are not composted yet. If they are incorporated INTO the soil they steal nitrogen from the soil, rather than add to it.
I had a nice conversation on reclaiming a barren lot with a young man and gal. He was bringing up the concept of wood chips, mulch layered to begin the process of revitalizing his backyard - he knew his subject very well and we discussed the methods and sources. Layering with wood chips, mulch, compost if you have it, manure creates an incredible reclaimation environment that you can begin to plant in after about 6 months. You are looking for 8+ inches in depth.
Free Wood Chips You can call a tree trimming service and arrange for a load of wood chips to be delivered, Free, to your home. This is a wonderful win/win because the landscaper is saved a run to the dump or landfill and you get a free mulch. FYI - IMPORTANT points: 1) They will deliver a load when they are in your area - sometimes you can arrange and exact date and time, but not always. 2) You will get a HUGE amount of wood chips all at once - about the entire length of your driveway, which you will have to wheelbarrow to your garden locations yourself, unless you want to pay for it to be moved.
I found an excellent short video illustrating just how big the pile is along with aspects of what might be in the pile. The videographer makes a nice point of building a relationship with a landscaper if you envision getting more than one load of wood chips.
Wood chips can be a component of "Sheet Mulching".Layering mulch to create healthy soil is referred to as Sheet Mulching or Lasagna Gardening. Watch Greg Peterson over The Urban Farm show you how to get a healthy bed going this way. Greg explains both long term use and short term use of the layer area.
Frost Protection / Planting Time.
We are at the end of cool weather planting the beginning of warm weather planting. BUT - planting the warm weather plants now means having frost protection available or in place (Poor Man's Cloche) until mid-March. It is about the occasional frosty night until then and even the possibility of hail.
Sowing seeds directly in ground, with proper watering, generally results in healthier plants overall. Water/sprinkle every day until you seed germination above ground (that means keeping it moist - not soggy - during the entire under-ground germinating process), and then you can start backing off the water to less frequency and more duration (deeper) to encourage good strong roots deep away from the soil surface and excess cold and heat.
Many of us "artificially" start seeds, in posts, jiffy pellets (I use these), indoors, using grow lights and heat mats. This works very well, germinating most seeds if done properly. The thing is -- these plants may not have the same stamina if started directly in the ground. It is a matter of the "strongest survive".
So if you have the option - direct sow.
We can still see soft frost (anything under cover whether blanket, tree or patio cover) will generally be okay with little or no damage.
Hard frost is possible this year with our freaky El Nino and its huge temperature swings. Hard frost moves "horizontally" as opposed to soft frost's vertical pattern. Hard Frost also means sustained (4 hours +) below 32 degrees and is difficult to prevent damage without the use of a heat source like old-fashioned Christmas tree lights and cover. Or moving plants into an above freezing level area.
DO NOT remove any frost damage yet. Not until we have no possibility of additional frost. If you did not see my previous post of February Planting, Hail etc.here is the link. I discuss a little more about end of frost and include a picture of a poor man's cloche.
Getting Back To Seeds:
Baker Creek Seeds: I received this email from them yesterday (so timely to my seed share), which I wanted to pass on to you all.
I'm always happy to answer questions via email or at the Mesa Community Farmers Market.
Watch my post regarding my Free Lecture open to the public at Mesa Urban Garden on February 20th. Details to be announced.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Website: http://www.herbs2u.net/
My Publisher is Offering A Discount good through Monday, January 25, 2016. On PRINT books and calendars.
15% Off All Print Books, Photo Books, and Calendars
Publisher's Site: http://www.lulu.com/spotlight/herbs2u
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Yesterday turned out to be a great Free Seed Day!
Over 120 seed packages went to new homes and I got some great seeds in too - Thank you Jacq Davis for the Papaya and Moringa Seeds and a very nice young man who brought Passion Flower seeds for the Seed Bank.
I did a lot of Q & A and clarifying on frost protection, planting time and some soil questions. And, what about using shade cloth?
Shade Cloth or Planting in Shade. Here is the thing, if you plant at the right time for the variety, shading in any form except with a limited number of species, is not necessary. If it is edible it needs the sun, as much of it as can be accessed. Plant like strawberries and peppers benefit from a bit of the late afternoon shade, but still like about 6-8 hours of direct sun.
If you absolutely feel you must use shade cloth for whatever reason you have to understand how high to place it. Shade cloth too close to the tops of the plants holds in the heat, creating a HOTTER not cooler environment for the plants. Have you ever stood under an umbrella or ten canopy on a hot day and wondered why it felt hotter when you have "shade"? Same principle there is no air flow sufficient to minimized the radiant heat produced by a fabric when the sun is beating down on it. (There are exceptions like mylar coated tents or similar.) Most folks presume that because you can see through shade cloth there is air movement. Nope! There should be a good 4-6 feet clearance between the top of the tallest plant in the garden and the shade cloth to avoid heat retention.
Preferably it should be place directly over - or slightly to the west of the garden area so that the plants can get at least some of the sun they need.
Tomatoes - One of the gardener's Holy Grail of plants and worth it if you do somethings right in the desert garden.
To begin with, we get two growing seasons out of a tomato planted in January/February. Spring and fall. The pollen can't set in the middle of the summer when our night time temperatures are in the 80s. The fruit starts to set again as soon as those temps drop back in late August /early September.
Seeds or transplants need frost protection until mid-March (on the outside of the time frame). Tomatoes do not like cool/cold soil and will actually stop growing if we hit a couple of cool/overcast days. They will start growing again when the soil warms back up.
Unless you plan on planting a forest of tomatoes - many, many plants all planted close together - do NOT stake or cage them. Let them Sprawl. High up is hot and dry, low down is cooler and moister. The vines get very strong and will generally hold the fruit up off the ground without a problem. Usually the sprawling vines also cover the fruit well enough to keep them visually out of bird site. IF Fruit touches the ground, just slip an un-coated white paper plate under the fruit to keep off soil. Do the same thing with melons or squash or any fruit which touches the ground. Use can use a piece of wood or a brick instead. (Large growers frequently use straw for the same purpose.) The bacteria in our soil is great but also a problem for tender fruits, causing them to rot and attract bugs.
Amending Soil: First about our "native" soil, worms and moisture.
Looking at a very dry, hard as a rock area of backyard or land most folks just can't see what lies beneath. Worms and moisture! Where are they? About 3+ feet below where the moisture ensures the worms a hospitable home and they are NOT going to come up into the dry earth above until it is more welcoming.
How do I know this? Because 20 years ago when Deane decided to completely rework the barren (except for mallows following a rain), hard as a rock backyard, the only thing we got sticking a shovel into the earth was an occasional grub. No Worms. Period.
He brought in several tons of compost, used one of the huge tillers to work the property stem to stern, until the soil looked like black talcum powder, and then he watered, leveled and bermed the entire perimeter and started planting trees by digging enormous holes for each one - six feet to be exact.
Along the way down - he encountered impressive caliche (a chemical reaction between the intensity of the sun, and high mineral content of the soil and water) a couple of feet down and below that was moist soil with an occasional worm!
Fast forward 1 year and digging and working in this revitalized soil we started encountering worms. Fast forward to today and we can stick a spade into the worked areas and find 2-3 worms per spade or 8-12 per shovel full.
Amending is about bringing in "organics" like finished compost, well rotted manure and working them into the native soil to "fluff" and increase drainage. There are minerals in un-amended soil, along with microbs and beneficial fungus, which together with the healthy "living" compost and manure create a perfect recipe for happy plants.
Compost vs. Mulch
Compost is worked INTO the soil. Mulch is put ON TOP of the soil, to cool the soil, minimize evaporation and begin or help the process of creating a hospitable environment that those worms - remember them - will want to come up into, bringing their rototilling, manure spreading, reproduction activities into.
The reason for the BIG difference in where the mulch is placed comes down to this: wood chips are not composted yet. If they are incorporated INTO the soil they steal nitrogen from the soil, rather than add to it.
I had a nice conversation on reclaiming a barren lot with a young man and gal. He was bringing up the concept of wood chips, mulch layered to begin the process of revitalizing his backyard - he knew his subject very well and we discussed the methods and sources. Layering with wood chips, mulch, compost if you have it, manure creates an incredible reclaimation environment that you can begin to plant in after about 6 months. You are looking for 8+ inches in depth.
Free Wood Chips You can call a tree trimming service and arrange for a load of wood chips to be delivered, Free, to your home. This is a wonderful win/win because the landscaper is saved a run to the dump or landfill and you get a free mulch. FYI - IMPORTANT points: 1) They will deliver a load when they are in your area - sometimes you can arrange and exact date and time, but not always. 2) You will get a HUGE amount of wood chips all at once - about the entire length of your driveway, which you will have to wheelbarrow to your garden locations yourself, unless you want to pay for it to be moved.
I found an excellent short video illustrating just how big the pile is along with aspects of what might be in the pile. The videographer makes a nice point of building a relationship with a landscaper if you envision getting more than one load of wood chips.
Wood chips can be a component of "Sheet Mulching".Layering mulch to create healthy soil is referred to as Sheet Mulching or Lasagna Gardening. Watch Greg Peterson over The Urban Farm show you how to get a healthy bed going this way. Greg explains both long term use and short term use of the layer area.
Frost Protection / Planting Time.
We are at the end of cool weather planting the beginning of warm weather planting. BUT - planting the warm weather plants now means having frost protection available or in place (Poor Man's Cloche) until mid-March. It is about the occasional frosty night until then and even the possibility of hail.
Sowing seeds directly in ground, with proper watering, generally results in healthier plants overall. Water/sprinkle every day until you seed germination above ground (that means keeping it moist - not soggy - during the entire under-ground germinating process), and then you can start backing off the water to less frequency and more duration (deeper) to encourage good strong roots deep away from the soil surface and excess cold and heat.
Many of us "artificially" start seeds, in posts, jiffy pellets (I use these), indoors, using grow lights and heat mats. This works very well, germinating most seeds if done properly. The thing is -- these plants may not have the same stamina if started directly in the ground. It is a matter of the "strongest survive".
So if you have the option - direct sow.
We can still see soft frost (anything under cover whether blanket, tree or patio cover) will generally be okay with little or no damage.
Hard frost is possible this year with our freaky El Nino and its huge temperature swings. Hard frost moves "horizontally" as opposed to soft frost's vertical pattern. Hard Frost also means sustained (4 hours +) below 32 degrees and is difficult to prevent damage without the use of a heat source like old-fashioned Christmas tree lights and cover. Or moving plants into an above freezing level area.
DO NOT remove any frost damage yet. Not until we have no possibility of additional frost. If you did not see my previous post of February Planting, Hail etc.here is the link. I discuss a little more about end of frost and include a picture of a poor man's cloche.
Getting Back To Seeds:
Baker Creek Seeds: I received this email from them yesterday (so timely to my seed share), which I wanted to pass on to you all.
"Did you know that Baker Creek
has published a kids' gardening booklet? Yes! This fun and informative
publication, Amazing Seeds: A Kids Guide to Strange and Wonderful Garden
Veggies, contains 32 color pages of interesting facts and how tos
for growing veggies. And the best part? We are happy to send quantities of
booklets for FREE to schools and homeschool groups, as well as to libraries and
special events. Just send an email to seeds@rareseeds.com,“Attn:
Free Kids Book” in the subject line."
I'm always happy to answer questions via email or at the Mesa Community Farmers Market.
Watch my post regarding my Free Lecture open to the public at Mesa Urban Garden on February 20th. Details to be announced.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Website: http://www.herbs2u.net/
My Publisher is Offering A Discount good through Monday, January 25, 2016. On PRINT books and calendars.
15% Off All Print Books, Photo Books, and Calendars
Cannot be combined with other offers.
Use Code: JANSAVE15
Offer ends January 25th at 11:59 PM
Publisher's Site: http://www.lulu.com/spotlight/herbs2u
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Tuesday, January 19, 2016
Survey Results and Notes.
Dear Folks,
I want to thank all of you who took the time to take my little survey back at the beginning of the month.
I also received an additional comment about more monthly planting information.
Here are the results of the survey:
desert gardening (87%)
edible landscaping in the desert (75%)
culinary herb gardening (50%)
more like my 25 days of Herbs & Celebrations (50%)
cooking from the garden (37%)
more on edible flowers (37%)
healthier recipe versions of traditional foods (25%)
chickens, ducks, goats (0%)
I'm going to take these one at a time and comment. If you wish to add a comment, please do, it helps me know what you need to be more successful in YOUR garden.
Desert Gardening (87%)
In looking at the interest in this option I probably should have been more specific, because what I had in mind was Native Edibles. So I'm going to go with that as the focus. If any of you had something different in mind I would like to know that!
Native plants are, of course, more tolerant of our desert conditions, require less watering than your usual veggie, fruit and citrus tree gardens, and have a cultural significance that makes them attractive over and above their edibility and other uses.
I would encourage you to check out Jean Groen's growing (pun intended) list of books on foods of the Sonoran Desert and other areas of the state.
Jean is a friend and as knowledgeable an expert on desert foods as I try to be on the 'traditional' garden-grown foods.
Order via sending her an email through the website. You can also find her books at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum bookstore. Or find some of her books on Amazon. I recommend starting out with "Foods of the Superstitions Old and New"
With that in mind, many of the food plants most gardeners so like, such as corn, melons and squash, have native heirloom varieties. Those are regionally adapted for this climate, but also take a bit more water than true desert plants.
Take Mesquite for example. This wonderful bush/tree has edible pods, provides shade, requires no watering once established (they do grow taller etc. if they get regular watering) and can be used to reclaim fallow areas in order to establish a vegetable garden. I will post more on that in a future blog.
Prickly Pear and Jojoba are some of the best known edibles. Both do well in a low/no water use garden. The Prickly Pear has edible flower, fruit and pads (being mindful of the thorns and glochids (hairy base of thorns). I will discuss these and more in future blogs.
Edible Landscaping in the Desert (75%)
My top passion. Upon arriving in Arizona in the 70s I discovered that there was no summer only gardening, but all-year gardening.
Like many new-comers it took be a bit to start understanding that spring fever enthusiasm for planting EVERYTHING as soon as the temperature was in the mid-70s to 80s was NOT a key to growing things.
What actually began as a need to put more flavor in my cooking through culinary herbs and spices (due to family salt and fat restrictions), morphed into a true passion to try and grow everything I tasted.
I found the concept of edible flowers intriguing - color and safety in my food and color and happy pollinators in the gardens. Win/Win for everyone and everything.
Gradually I discovered that trialing a couple of each type of plant in different areas of the gardens yielded not only successes but also what did not work, at the same time observing the timing of planting and sowing. As each variety showed me where and when it was happiest, I also learned to take that learned knowledge and apply it to what might be considered exotic food plants. I was insatiably curious about new-to-me veggies and herbs from other cultures. I read and researched every chance I got, purchased plants and seeds to add to my trialing. I quizzed folks of ethnic backgrounds on what their grandparents and parents grew and ate.
That proved to be both a challenge and a delight. While at the farmers market I would ask someone what their ethnic heritage was. This almost always, initially, brought a guarded look and answer. When I told them I wanted to know what their grandparents or parents grew and cooked with - the delight just lite up their faces and I listened and learned..
The results in my gardens with all of my Trowel & Error gardening yielded an amazing result. I have found very, very few food plants that cannot be grown here.
The key is always, always to plant at the right time for the variety.
Culinary Herb Gardening (50%)
More Like My 25 Days of Herbs & Celebrations (50%)
The breadth of culinary herbs may seem small, but the range within families is quite large. You could use a different flavor of basil every day for a month and not exactly repeat the flavor.
I will weave posts on culinary herbs into the Edible Landscaping posts. It is interesting to me that so many folks view of herbs begin with a notion that herbs in the garden are unattractive and relegated to the back of the yard, out of view.
Most herbs are not only attractive, their flowers are edible (fragrant and tasty like the herb itself) and while some are 'plain' some are just drop-dead gorgeous plants in or out of bloom.
I am so pleased many of you enjoyed the 25 Days of Herbs and Celebrations. I will definitely keep the concept of series in mind when choosing topics.
Cooking from the Garden (37%)
More on Edible Flowers (37%)
I have to pay more attention to my recipe building as this survey result would indicate I don't always showcase what I used from the garden. I do regularly create or re-share recipes but I don't always mention when I worked from the garden harvests. I need to get better at that :-)
The range of edible flowers goes from vegetable and herbs flowers (sugar pea flowers and basil flowers) to old-fashioned cottage beloved flowers like hollyhock, stock and nasturtium.
I will try to do a blog post which incorporates more discussion on individual edible flowers with appropriate planting/sowing time. The great thing about edible flowers, here in the desert, is you can have edible flowers in bloom every month of the year including the summer.
Healthier Recipe Versions of Traditional Foods (25%)
Chickens, Ducks, Goats (0%)
Okay no discussions that only focus on chickens, ducks or goats - got it! However if you have the place and a need for "fresh" -- goats milk (and yogurt and cheese made from it) is wonderful along with your own chicken and duck eggs. There are side benefits for your gardens too - fertilizer :-)
Healthier Recipes. I am more and more interested in making my own version of commercially produced foods. Just recently I made a version of Cheeze-Its crackers using locally made cheese. There is no way this was low calorie, but I'm going to adjust the ingredients to make it higher protein to calorie ration, which is one of my guiding principles when making a homemade version of something. Compared to Cheeze-its my recipe has only 5 ingredients.
There are exceptions - if it is a dessert I just try to make from better ingredients (organic sugar, organic butter etc.)
Most of my recipes, including my homemade versions of commercial products is focused on my formula for what constitutes nutrient dense. The total number of grams of protein and fiber added together and divided into the calories for the serving resulting a factor number. Nutrient dense food has a factor of 20 or less.
An example is my "Seed/Nut Cheese Cracker" which has a ND factor of 12.97 compared with Triscuits which has a factor of 20 (THE best of the commercial crackers but still with a lot of chemicals and high sodium in it).
I have some more ideas for homemade versions of foods I will be sharing in the future.
. . .
FINALLY
I want to thank you again for taking the time to give me feedback on what matters to you. I won't try to follow a proscribed schedule, instead doing regular posts addressing one or more of these themes.
Have a great week - it is going to be pretty nice most of it.
REMEMBER - my Free Seed Share this coming Friday at the Mesa Community Farmers Market - 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Changing Hands On Line Book Store carries my books.
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
I want to thank all of you who took the time to take my little survey back at the beginning of the month.
I also received an additional comment about more monthly planting information.
Here are the results of the survey:
desert gardening (87%)
edible landscaping in the desert (75%)
culinary herb gardening (50%)
more like my 25 days of Herbs & Celebrations (50%)
cooking from the garden (37%)
more on edible flowers (37%)
healthier recipe versions of traditional foods (25%)
chickens, ducks, goats (0%)
I'm going to take these one at a time and comment. If you wish to add a comment, please do, it helps me know what you need to be more successful in YOUR garden.
Desert Gardening (87%)
In looking at the interest in this option I probably should have been more specific, because what I had in mind was Native Edibles. So I'm going to go with that as the focus. If any of you had something different in mind I would like to know that!
Native plants are, of course, more tolerant of our desert conditions, require less watering than your usual veggie, fruit and citrus tree gardens, and have a cultural significance that makes them attractive over and above their edibility and other uses.
I would encourage you to check out Jean Groen's growing (pun intended) list of books on foods of the Sonoran Desert and other areas of the state.
Jean is a friend and as knowledgeable an expert on desert foods as I try to be on the 'traditional' garden-grown foods.
Order via sending her an email through the website. You can also find her books at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum bookstore. Or find some of her books on Amazon. I recommend starting out with "Foods of the Superstitions Old and New"
With that in mind, many of the food plants most gardeners so like, such as corn, melons and squash, have native heirloom varieties. Those are regionally adapted for this climate, but also take a bit more water than true desert plants.
Take Mesquite for example. This wonderful bush/tree has edible pods, provides shade, requires no watering once established (they do grow taller etc. if they get regular watering) and can be used to reclaim fallow areas in order to establish a vegetable garden. I will post more on that in a future blog.
Prickly Pear and Jojoba are some of the best known edibles. Both do well in a low/no water use garden. The Prickly Pear has edible flower, fruit and pads (being mindful of the thorns and glochids (hairy base of thorns). I will discuss these and more in future blogs.
Edible Landscaping in the Desert (75%)
My top passion. Upon arriving in Arizona in the 70s I discovered that there was no summer only gardening, but all-year gardening.
Like many new-comers it took be a bit to start understanding that spring fever enthusiasm for planting EVERYTHING as soon as the temperature was in the mid-70s to 80s was NOT a key to growing things.
What actually began as a need to put more flavor in my cooking through culinary herbs and spices (due to family salt and fat restrictions), morphed into a true passion to try and grow everything I tasted.
I found the concept of edible flowers intriguing - color and safety in my food and color and happy pollinators in the gardens. Win/Win for everyone and everything.
Gradually I discovered that trialing a couple of each type of plant in different areas of the gardens yielded not only successes but also what did not work, at the same time observing the timing of planting and sowing. As each variety showed me where and when it was happiest, I also learned to take that learned knowledge and apply it to what might be considered exotic food plants. I was insatiably curious about new-to-me veggies and herbs from other cultures. I read and researched every chance I got, purchased plants and seeds to add to my trialing. I quizzed folks of ethnic backgrounds on what their grandparents and parents grew and ate.
That proved to be both a challenge and a delight. While at the farmers market I would ask someone what their ethnic heritage was. This almost always, initially, brought a guarded look and answer. When I told them I wanted to know what their grandparents or parents grew and cooked with - the delight just lite up their faces and I listened and learned..
The results in my gardens with all of my Trowel & Error gardening yielded an amazing result. I have found very, very few food plants that cannot be grown here.
The key is always, always to plant at the right time for the variety.
Culinary Herb Gardening (50%)
More Like My 25 Days of Herbs & Celebrations (50%)
The breadth of culinary herbs may seem small, but the range within families is quite large. You could use a different flavor of basil every day for a month and not exactly repeat the flavor.
I will weave posts on culinary herbs into the Edible Landscaping posts. It is interesting to me that so many folks view of herbs begin with a notion that herbs in the garden are unattractive and relegated to the back of the yard, out of view.
Most herbs are not only attractive, their flowers are edible (fragrant and tasty like the herb itself) and while some are 'plain' some are just drop-dead gorgeous plants in or out of bloom.
I am so pleased many of you enjoyed the 25 Days of Herbs and Celebrations. I will definitely keep the concept of series in mind when choosing topics.
Cooking from the Garden (37%)
More on Edible Flowers (37%)
I have to pay more attention to my recipe building as this survey result would indicate I don't always showcase what I used from the garden. I do regularly create or re-share recipes but I don't always mention when I worked from the garden harvests. I need to get better at that :-)
The range of edible flowers goes from vegetable and herbs flowers (sugar pea flowers and basil flowers) to old-fashioned cottage beloved flowers like hollyhock, stock and nasturtium.
I will try to do a blog post which incorporates more discussion on individual edible flowers with appropriate planting/sowing time. The great thing about edible flowers, here in the desert, is you can have edible flowers in bloom every month of the year including the summer.
Healthier Recipe Versions of Traditional Foods (25%)
Chickens, Ducks, Goats (0%)
Okay no discussions that only focus on chickens, ducks or goats - got it! However if you have the place and a need for "fresh" -- goats milk (and yogurt and cheese made from it) is wonderful along with your own chicken and duck eggs. There are side benefits for your gardens too - fertilizer :-)
Healthier Recipes. I am more and more interested in making my own version of commercially produced foods. Just recently I made a version of Cheeze-Its crackers using locally made cheese. There is no way this was low calorie, but I'm going to adjust the ingredients to make it higher protein to calorie ration, which is one of my guiding principles when making a homemade version of something. Compared to Cheeze-its my recipe has only 5 ingredients.
There are exceptions - if it is a dessert I just try to make from better ingredients (organic sugar, organic butter etc.)
Most of my recipes, including my homemade versions of commercial products is focused on my formula for what constitutes nutrient dense. The total number of grams of protein and fiber added together and divided into the calories for the serving resulting a factor number. Nutrient dense food has a factor of 20 or less.
An example is my "Seed/Nut Cheese Cracker" which has a ND factor of 12.97 compared with Triscuits which has a factor of 20 (THE best of the commercial crackers but still with a lot of chemicals and high sodium in it).
I have some more ideas for homemade versions of foods I will be sharing in the future.
. . .
FINALLY
I want to thank you again for taking the time to give me feedback on what matters to you. I won't try to follow a proscribed schedule, instead doing regular posts addressing one or more of these themes.
Have a great week - it is going to be pretty nice most of it.
REMEMBER - my Free Seed Share this coming Friday at the Mesa Community Farmers Market - 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Changing Hands On Line Book Store carries my books.
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Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Sunday, January 17, 2016
February Planting, Frost, Hail and Fertilizer
Dear Folks,
FEBRUARY PLANTING:
[Pictured: Poor Man's Cloche]
VEGETABLES, FRUITS & HERBS TO PLANT
Artichoke; Asparagus; Basil; Bay; Bean, Lima; Beets; Bok Choy; Cantaloupe; Carrots; Chard; Citrus Scented Marigold (Tagetes Nelsonii); Collards; Corn; Cucumbers; Epazote; Fruit Trees; Jerusalem Artichoke; Lavender; Lettuce & Greens; Marigold; Marjoram; Melon, Musk Melon; Melon, Winter; Mint; Mustard; Onion, Sets; Onions, Green; Oregano; Peas; Peppers; Potatoes; Purslane; Radishes; Sage; Savory; Spinach; Squash, Summer; Strawberry; Thyme; Tomatoes; Turnips; Watermelon
EDIBLE FLOWERS TO PLANT:
Bee Balm (Monarda Didyma); English Daisy ; Hollyhock; Jasmine Sambac (Arabian); Pansies; Primrose; Purslane; Safflower; Scented Geraniums; Snapdragons; Sunflower; Sweet Alyssum; Tangerine Scented Marigold (Tagetes Lemonii)
Frost/Freeze: Average last frost day is approximately February 15th, however frost and hail has been seen as late as the second week in March. It is best to have your frost covers handy.
GARDEN TIPS for February
February is the transition time for the garden from Winter to Spring sowing, transplanting and harvesting.
There is still time to get a last batch of carrots, sugarpeas, lettuces and similar in the ground. Choosing short maturity varieties, particularly of the root veggies, will give you more harvesting success as the weather jumps to heat in a couple of months.
February is also the time to start your warm season plants like tomatoes, basil and peppers, to name a few. But they may need some initial frost protection. Keep in mind that they may actually stop growing if there is a cold day or several, which chills the soil. Then they resume when the soil heats back up (an interesting phenomenon I finally caught on to several years ago).
The weird weather of the last couple of years in February/March with high temps followed by overnight chill/freeze (Global Weirding as Karis over at the Valley Permaculture Alliance put it so well), makes for some required diligence in the garden in February and March. It pays to remain more mindful of what the weather will be rather than just sow and try to grow.
February is the end of the primary perennial best planting time in the valley (October - February). What this means is that to ensure the best success for your perennials like rosemary, oregano and fruit trees, it is best to have them in the ground before the end of February and the beginning of our temperature increases.
New to-the-valley residents can be surprised by the common spring joke of "when is spring here?" and the answer is "do you remember that period in early March when it was about 78-83 or so degrees for about 2 weeks? - that was it!"
This of course is due to the sudden rise of temperatures from balmy mid 70s in late February / early March to the 90s by April 1st (or higher - we have had the rare 100+ degree days in late March or early April).
The plants just can't take the stress of dealing with putting down roots while the temperatures soar into the 90+ range in just a few short weeks.
Fertilize fruit trees now -- Use Valentine's day as the target -- (and again in late May (Memorial Day) and early September (Labor Day).
Pecan trees need zinc sulfate, applied at the rate of 1 pound per trunk inch width.
ABOUT FROST
The last frost date averages around February 15th, although we have had frost as late as March 1st or 2nd (usually the result of a late winter storm with hail).
Frost in the Valley at the 1100 or lower elevations is usually limited to ‘soft frost’ where simple sheets or paper placed over sensitive plants (or moving potted plants beneath patios or trees) is sufficient to protect them. Hard/Killing frosts are rare particularly in February/March.
For every 1000 feet over 1100 in elevation the last frost day is moved back 10 days and the possibility of hard (killing) frosts starts to occur. At 2000 feet or lower, this is still a rare occurrence.
Getting your edible seedlings in the ground as early as possible provides longer-produce seasons - especially with plants like tomatoes.
Use homemade 'cloche' covers to protect seedlings -- cut the bottom of gallon milk containers or 2 liter soda bottles - clean very well to avoid mold -- place over plants each night until frost danger is past, remove during the day, or if you need to be gone for several days remove the cap to allow excess heat and humidity to escape.
How do you know if we are finished with frost? There are some examples in nature, but you still need to be prepared to cover sensitive plants through the 2nd week in March.
a. Ant activity in the garden indicates the soil has warmed up sufficiently for them to start gathering food again.
b. If the mesquite trees have started to bud out, it is unlikely to frost after that
c. Be aware that a warm storm can contain some hail through March.
HAIL
Here in the Valley we can have Hail on an expected basis in Spring, early Summer and Fall.
The perfect conditions for Hail are warm OR WARMING soil, cool air mass coming in AND wind.
February and March have the perfect combination of warming soil and a cool system moving in. If you add wind you will generally get hail.
So, while actual frost may not happen keep your frost protection covers and jugs handy in the event of hail to safeguard your new seedlings and transplants.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
My calendar can keep you on track for planting veggies, fruits, herbs and edible flowers at the right time through out the year. http://www.herbs2u.net/gardening.html
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
FEBRUARY PLANTING:
[Pictured: Poor Man's Cloche]
VEGETABLES, FRUITS & HERBS TO PLANT
Artichoke; Asparagus; Basil; Bay; Bean, Lima; Beets; Bok Choy; Cantaloupe; Carrots; Chard; Citrus Scented Marigold (Tagetes Nelsonii); Collards; Corn; Cucumbers; Epazote; Fruit Trees; Jerusalem Artichoke; Lavender; Lettuce & Greens; Marigold; Marjoram; Melon, Musk Melon; Melon, Winter; Mint; Mustard; Onion, Sets; Onions, Green; Oregano; Peas; Peppers; Potatoes; Purslane; Radishes; Sage; Savory; Spinach; Squash, Summer; Strawberry; Thyme; Tomatoes; Turnips; Watermelon
EDIBLE FLOWERS TO PLANT:
Bee Balm (Monarda Didyma); English Daisy ; Hollyhock; Jasmine Sambac (Arabian); Pansies; Primrose; Purslane; Safflower; Scented Geraniums; Snapdragons; Sunflower; Sweet Alyssum; Tangerine Scented Marigold (Tagetes Lemonii)
Frost/Freeze: Average last frost day is approximately February 15th, however frost and hail has been seen as late as the second week in March. It is best to have your frost covers handy.
GARDEN TIPS for February
February is the transition time for the garden from Winter to Spring sowing, transplanting and harvesting.
There is still time to get a last batch of carrots, sugarpeas, lettuces and similar in the ground. Choosing short maturity varieties, particularly of the root veggies, will give you more harvesting success as the weather jumps to heat in a couple of months.
February is also the time to start your warm season plants like tomatoes, basil and peppers, to name a few. But they may need some initial frost protection. Keep in mind that they may actually stop growing if there is a cold day or several, which chills the soil. Then they resume when the soil heats back up (an interesting phenomenon I finally caught on to several years ago).
The weird weather of the last couple of years in February/March with high temps followed by overnight chill/freeze (Global Weirding as Karis over at the Valley Permaculture Alliance put it so well), makes for some required diligence in the garden in February and March. It pays to remain more mindful of what the weather will be rather than just sow and try to grow.
February is the end of the primary perennial best planting time in the valley (October - February). What this means is that to ensure the best success for your perennials like rosemary, oregano and fruit trees, it is best to have them in the ground before the end of February and the beginning of our temperature increases.
New to-the-valley residents can be surprised by the common spring joke of "when is spring here?" and the answer is "do you remember that period in early March when it was about 78-83 or so degrees for about 2 weeks? - that was it!"
This of course is due to the sudden rise of temperatures from balmy mid 70s in late February / early March to the 90s by April 1st (or higher - we have had the rare 100+ degree days in late March or early April).
The plants just can't take the stress of dealing with putting down roots while the temperatures soar into the 90+ range in just a few short weeks.
Fertilize fruit trees now -- Use Valentine's day as the target -- (and again in late May (Memorial Day) and early September (Labor Day).
Pecan trees need zinc sulfate, applied at the rate of 1 pound per trunk inch width.
ABOUT FROST
The last frost date averages around February 15th, although we have had frost as late as March 1st or 2nd (usually the result of a late winter storm with hail).
Frost in the Valley at the 1100 or lower elevations is usually limited to ‘soft frost’ where simple sheets or paper placed over sensitive plants (or moving potted plants beneath patios or trees) is sufficient to protect them. Hard/Killing frosts are rare particularly in February/March.
For every 1000 feet over 1100 in elevation the last frost day is moved back 10 days and the possibility of hard (killing) frosts starts to occur. At 2000 feet or lower, this is still a rare occurrence.
Getting your edible seedlings in the ground as early as possible provides longer-produce seasons - especially with plants like tomatoes.
Use homemade 'cloche' covers to protect seedlings -- cut the bottom of gallon milk containers or 2 liter soda bottles - clean very well to avoid mold -- place over plants each night until frost danger is past, remove during the day, or if you need to be gone for several days remove the cap to allow excess heat and humidity to escape.
How do you know if we are finished with frost? There are some examples in nature, but you still need to be prepared to cover sensitive plants through the 2nd week in March.
a. Ant activity in the garden indicates the soil has warmed up sufficiently for them to start gathering food again.
b. If the mesquite trees have started to bud out, it is unlikely to frost after that
c. Be aware that a warm storm can contain some hail through March.
HAIL
Here in the Valley we can have Hail on an expected basis in Spring, early Summer and Fall.
The perfect conditions for Hail are warm OR WARMING soil, cool air mass coming in AND wind.
February and March have the perfect combination of warming soil and a cool system moving in. If you add wind you will generally get hail.
So, while actual frost may not happen keep your frost protection covers and jugs handy in the event of hail to safeguard your new seedlings and transplants.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
My calendar can keep you on track for planting veggies, fruits, herbs and edible flowers at the right time through out the year. http://www.herbs2u.net/gardening.html
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Tuesday, January 12, 2016
Seed Saving Webinar - Free - Sign Up! January 19th AND Next Free Seed Share - January 22nd
Dear Folks,
Learn how to Save Seeds and then come to the Free Seed Share!
Pictured: Hollyhock, Roselle, Lettuce and Arugula, Nasturtium, soaking and then drying tomato seed.
The Urban Farm is hosting a 2 hour free webinar on Seed Saving with the always interesting speaker Bill McDorman - I saw him speak at a conference last year and he was not only full of great info, but inspirational.
You need to register for the webinar, but it is free. 6 - 8 p.m., Tuesday, January 19th.
http://www.urbanfarm.org/event/seed-saving-hacked-free-webinar/
I have been saving seeds for some years for both my use and to add to the seed bank I take to the Mesa Community Farmers Market for a "Free Seed Share" -- next one is January 22nd from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
There are some excellent reasons for saving seeds from your garden.
1) they are FREE
2) you are creating stronger generations in YOUR garden, called regional adaptation
3) natural in the truest sense of the word - no chemicals or additives, just plain healthy seeds
4) stored properly - dry, cool, dark - seeds can remain viable for years.
The time for the Webinar and the Seed Share are appropriate - this is the start of the spring/summer planting time, and nearing the end of the fall/winter growing time -- perfect to harvest the seeds from your plants for saving, storing and sharing.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
http://www.herbs2u.net/home.html
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Learn how to Save Seeds and then come to the Free Seed Share!
The Urban Farm is hosting a 2 hour free webinar on Seed Saving with the always interesting speaker Bill McDorman - I saw him speak at a conference last year and he was not only full of great info, but inspirational.
You need to register for the webinar, but it is free. 6 - 8 p.m., Tuesday, January 19th.
http://www.urbanfarm.org/event/seed-saving-hacked-free-webinar/
I have been saving seeds for some years for both my use and to add to the seed bank I take to the Mesa Community Farmers Market for a "Free Seed Share" -- next one is January 22nd from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
There are some excellent reasons for saving seeds from your garden.
1) they are FREE
2) you are creating stronger generations in YOUR garden, called regional adaptation
3) natural in the truest sense of the word - no chemicals or additives, just plain healthy seeds
4) stored properly - dry, cool, dark - seeds can remain viable for years.
The time for the Webinar and the Seed Share are appropriate - this is the start of the spring/summer planting time, and nearing the end of the fall/winter growing time -- perfect to harvest the seeds from your plants for saving, storing and sharing.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
http://www.herbs2u.net/home.html
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Saturday, January 09, 2016
Cheese Lover? Homemade Cheeze-Its!
Dear Folks,
I love almost all cheeses. Not fond of blue cheese but I know many folks are so choose your preferred cheese for these crackers :-)
The other day when it was raining/pouring cats and dogs* I was having cabin fever and resorted to my go-to -- cooking!
I had wanted to try a homemade Cheeze-It recipe for a while. I love them, also Cheetos, and indulge in either on a rare or limited basis because of all the chemical additions.
Right off the top I have to tell you this not low calorie or low fat. I use real organic butter a really nice local cheese and unbleached white whole wheat flour but they are really great tasting! Pictured are the finished crackers - the empty spot is the one I tasted :-)
A couple of tips. Use a coarse grater for the cheese and the butter (frozen). Grating frozen butter is far easier than trying to incorporate cubes etc. into a dough. I saw that tip on a recipe and grabbed it!
I used a great cheese from Arizona Farms (you can use any firm Cheddar or Cheddar like cheese. I like white cheddar. Yellow cheddar have annatto to color the cheese - a practice begun by Kraft because they did not think the housewife wanted white cheese. Annatto is natural and derived from a plant, but still I wanted natural. I bowed to the idea of a bit of color by adding a tiny amount of Paprika as the white whole wheat flour I used also was pale.
Also use your food processor or mixer with a paddle. I tried my mixer with dough hooks and all it did was spin the cheese, butter and flour around into well floured strips. I wound up dumping everything into the processor and it came together lickity-split.
If you go looking for Cheeze-It recipes you will see variations on chill, flour, roll - I like the idea of placing the dough between 2 pieces of wax paper and just rolling it out. Saves adding extra flour (sometimes not a good thing) and cleaning your rolling pin of dough.
Roll, cut with pizza cutter - a pastry wheel gives a more authentic look if you have it. I cut off the odd edges, and re-rolled to use up every bit of the dough. You can probably see from the un-even sizes of the "squares" that my oft-repeated comment about myself (I can't cut a straight line with a ruler) applies. But they still backed up okay. :-)
Once you have them cut into squares place on a parchment lined cookie sheet, or no-stick cookie sheet, separated slightly. Poke with a fork or chopstick. This makes it look more like the commercial one AND prevents them turning too puffy - unless you like puffy. :-) They are supposed to puff slightly because of the butter flour combo.
I am really pleased with my first try at making these. I erred on the side of using unsalted butter. I would recommend using salted, keep the extra salt in the recipe, as these are meant to be salty tasting, just not AS salted as the commercial variety.
Deane loves peanut and really is enjoying these with peanut butter. I like them out of hand. They will be good on stews, soups or even as croutons on salads.
I may try a way to reduce the calories. This batch came in at 1398 Calories, 51.13 grams of Protein and 13.98 Grams of Fiber for 67 crackers. I will try something like substituting some of the butter for parmesan cheese. 1 ounce/tablespoon of butter or Parmesan have about the same amount of calories, but the Cheese will add 8 grams of protein for each ounce. With the full fat cheddar, if I sub 3 ounces of Par for the butter, it would add 24 grams of protein to the batch. May try this and post how it turns out.
I purchased the cheese from Tom Garrett one of the vendors at the Mesa Community Farmers Markets and he had to tell me about the new Arizona Farms Cheese he was carrying: "Garlic, Black Pepper, White Cheddar" (he carries cheese curds and a variety of other cheeses). I immediately bought it. Used it to make a cheeseball at the holidays and then the rest for this recipe. FYI Tom sells the cheeses, avocado oil and Maple Syrup at other markets too.
My Homemade Cheeze-Its
1 1/2 cups of coarsely shredded cheese, Cheddar or other firm cheese (natural or organic)
4 tablespoons / 4 ounces (1/2 stick) of frozen butter, coarsely shredded (organic)
3/4 cup of white whole wheat flour (I used King Arthur)
1/4 teaspoon of sea salt + more for sprinkling
1/8 teaspoon of paprika
1-3 tablespoons of ice water
Preheat the oven to 350. Prepare your cookie sheet with parchment paper if using.
Toss the cheese and butter together lightly just to mix in. Stir flour, salt and paprika together. Place all in a food processor and pulse. It will form a pebbly texture. With the processor running, dribble in 1 tablespoon of ice water at a time, slowly and watch. The dough will come together quickly and should hold together like a soft clay when ready. Don't over use the water.
Roll out between to pieces of wax paper to an 1/8 or 1/4 inch thickness. How thick you make is your choice and will only alter overall baking time.
Cut into squares with a pizza or pastry wheel. Poke with a fork or chopstick before or after you place on the cookie sheet. Bake for 8-14 minutes and WATCH them. They should just brown ever so slightly around the edges, puff slightly and look dry. Remove, cool, eat! Store away from moisture. Enjoy!
*The origin of pouring/raining cats and dogs is believed to relate back to the early centuries when roofs were made of thatch and straw and easily accessible by the family's cats or dogs because of the warmth of the straw and heat from the fires inside. In a downpour the animals would slide off the roof e.g., raining cats and dogs.
I hope your weekend is great!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
http://www.herbs2u.net/home.html
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
I love almost all cheeses. Not fond of blue cheese but I know many folks are so choose your preferred cheese for these crackers :-)
I had wanted to try a homemade Cheeze-It recipe for a while. I love them, also Cheetos, and indulge in either on a rare or limited basis because of all the chemical additions.
Right off the top I have to tell you this not low calorie or low fat. I use real organic butter a really nice local cheese and unbleached white whole wheat flour but they are really great tasting! Pictured are the finished crackers - the empty spot is the one I tasted :-)
I used a great cheese from Arizona Farms (you can use any firm Cheddar or Cheddar like cheese. I like white cheddar. Yellow cheddar have annatto to color the cheese - a practice begun by Kraft because they did not think the housewife wanted white cheese. Annatto is natural and derived from a plant, but still I wanted natural. I bowed to the idea of a bit of color by adding a tiny amount of Paprika as the white whole wheat flour I used also was pale.
Also use your food processor or mixer with a paddle. I tried my mixer with dough hooks and all it did was spin the cheese, butter and flour around into well floured strips. I wound up dumping everything into the processor and it came together lickity-split.
If you go looking for Cheeze-It recipes you will see variations on chill, flour, roll - I like the idea of placing the dough between 2 pieces of wax paper and just rolling it out. Saves adding extra flour (sometimes not a good thing) and cleaning your rolling pin of dough.
Roll, cut with pizza cutter - a pastry wheel gives a more authentic look if you have it. I cut off the odd edges, and re-rolled to use up every bit of the dough. You can probably see from the un-even sizes of the "squares" that my oft-repeated comment about myself (I can't cut a straight line with a ruler) applies. But they still backed up okay. :-)
Once you have them cut into squares place on a parchment lined cookie sheet, or no-stick cookie sheet, separated slightly. Poke with a fork or chopstick. This makes it look more like the commercial one AND prevents them turning too puffy - unless you like puffy. :-) They are supposed to puff slightly because of the butter flour combo.
I am really pleased with my first try at making these. I erred on the side of using unsalted butter. I would recommend using salted, keep the extra salt in the recipe, as these are meant to be salty tasting, just not AS salted as the commercial variety.
Deane loves peanut and really is enjoying these with peanut butter. I like them out of hand. They will be good on stews, soups or even as croutons on salads.
I may try a way to reduce the calories. This batch came in at 1398 Calories, 51.13 grams of Protein and 13.98 Grams of Fiber for 67 crackers. I will try something like substituting some of the butter for parmesan cheese. 1 ounce/tablespoon of butter or Parmesan have about the same amount of calories, but the Cheese will add 8 grams of protein for each ounce. With the full fat cheddar, if I sub 3 ounces of Par for the butter, it would add 24 grams of protein to the batch. May try this and post how it turns out.
I purchased the cheese from Tom Garrett one of the vendors at the Mesa Community Farmers Markets and he had to tell me about the new Arizona Farms Cheese he was carrying: "Garlic, Black Pepper, White Cheddar" (he carries cheese curds and a variety of other cheeses). I immediately bought it. Used it to make a cheeseball at the holidays and then the rest for this recipe. FYI Tom sells the cheeses, avocado oil and Maple Syrup at other markets too.
My Homemade Cheeze-Its
1 1/2 cups of coarsely shredded cheese, Cheddar or other firm cheese (natural or organic)
4 tablespoons / 4 ounces (1/2 stick) of frozen butter, coarsely shredded (organic)
3/4 cup of white whole wheat flour (I used King Arthur)
1/4 teaspoon of sea salt + more for sprinkling
1/8 teaspoon of paprika
1-3 tablespoons of ice water
Preheat the oven to 350. Prepare your cookie sheet with parchment paper if using.
Toss the cheese and butter together lightly just to mix in. Stir flour, salt and paprika together. Place all in a food processor and pulse. It will form a pebbly texture. With the processor running, dribble in 1 tablespoon of ice water at a time, slowly and watch. The dough will come together quickly and should hold together like a soft clay when ready. Don't over use the water.
Roll out between to pieces of wax paper to an 1/8 or 1/4 inch thickness. How thick you make is your choice and will only alter overall baking time.
Cut into squares with a pizza or pastry wheel. Poke with a fork or chopstick before or after you place on the cookie sheet. Bake for 8-14 minutes and WATCH them. They should just brown ever so slightly around the edges, puff slightly and look dry. Remove, cool, eat! Store away from moisture. Enjoy!
If you enjoy my recipes, check out my newest cookbook. Available in print or ebook PDF at my Publisher's site. Amazon, Barnes & Noble and Changing Hands should have it in about 4 weeks.
My first cookbook "101+ Recipes From The Herb Lady" is filled with herb inspired recipes focusing on using herbs and spices first to bring the full flavor of the dish out before adding salt and fats.
. . .
*The origin of pouring/raining cats and dogs is believed to relate back to the early centuries when roofs were made of thatch and straw and easily accessible by the family's cats or dogs because of the warmth of the straw and heat from the fires inside. In a downpour the animals would slide off the roof e.g., raining cats and dogs.
I hope your weekend is great!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
http://www.herbs2u.net/home.html
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Friday, January 08, 2016
Sprouting Salads - REAL FOOD - FAST - Anytime Anywhere.
Dear Folks,
It must have been kismet that I decided to sprout some beans and lentils, inspired by a project I'm working on, that Greg Peterson at The Urban Farm, posted (a few days after I started my first batch) a podcast with a master sprouter, Peter Burke
Listen to this fun podcast, check out the Urban Farm website for sources and Peter's book and website for seed supplies.
One of the ongoing discussions about alternative methods of trying to grow more food in best and healthiest ways are around the idea of hydroponic, aquaponic, vertical gardens and other not-in-the-ground methods of producing food. One of the other parts of the discussions are about how much of the alternative growing methods focus on lettuces and not much else.
WELL . . . here is where sprouting beans and other legumes along with grains, seeds and nuts comes more completely into focus. Although there is not as much information on the nutrition of sprouted beans etc. vs. the dried and cooked, the "general" consensus is when harvested in the early stages of sprouting the sprouts have near identical nutrition to the dried bean, nut or seed. If you check at the site below, you will see 100 grams (3.5 ounces measured dry or wet) of lentils dried as 9 grams of protein and 7 grams of fiber. The sprouted ones show 9 grams of protein and the fiber is not listed but we can safely presume the fiber is equal or similar.
So spouting your legumes etc. is not just growing lettuce, it is growing a far more nutritious group of FRESH foods daily.
If you missed my post on 2016 The International Year of Pulses (legumes), here is the link where I have information on the dried via a great nutrition information site - called HealthAliciousNess.com - I gravitated right away to the name because I use a variant "herbalicious" for growing and using herbs in cooking. :-)
So, back to my sprouting. I used to sprout on a sort of regular basis many years ago, but it fell by the wayside when I fully realized I could grow everything OUTSIDE! So much of the literature and emphasis years ago on sprouting was all about fresh greens, indoors, in the cold winter.
So I drifted away from sprouting. I've come back full circle, in part because of the project (I will update with more info later - it is a cookbook), but also because of my cabin fever due to ALL OF THE RAIN we are having and the COLD weather which came with the year-end and new year. I do not do cold well, even desert cold, and it gets worse for me each year so I time my garden activities for the mid-day if I can.
AND I have lovely greens etc. growing now in the garden, but I wanted to plant more and it ain't happening while it is cold or this rainy.
FYI Sow seeds in the garden AFTER the rain otherwise you risk them being washed away - or start in your choice of germinating medium and location then transplant out when the sun if back out - that is for winter gardening - hot weather starting and transplanting is done differently.
After I planted my potatoes on New Year's Day, out in the garden (my annual tradition to jump into new year gardening), I decided to soak some garbanzo beans and green lentils. A quarter cup (1/4) each. Since it has been a long time since I sprouted I misjudged on how much volume I would get and it just the two of us, so I had enough sprouts for 4 days for some stews, soups and salads :-) The quarter cup each resulted in 3 cups of total sprouts in just a little over 2 days.
This was also the first ever time I sprouted garbanzos and lentils. The Sprout People suggest tasting at all rinsing times to see when you like them best. Once you get to that taste preference, refrigerate and use. I really liked the nutty flavor of the garbanzos - different from the cooked bean or hummus, which I love. The lentils were very mild in flavor and tasty. The combination worked great with a beef stew I made and a mixed green garden salad (I have red romaine, curly escarole, arugula and red sails lettuces growing along with my red scallions, dressed in my Limequat vinaigrette dressing made with avocado oil and my dried Mexican Oregano.
I began another batch only this time with 2 tablespoons of the green lentils and 1/4 cup of the garbanzo beans to try and get a better balance. It sort of worked :-) The lentils just fluff more. This batch started January 5th is ready today (7th) or the 8th depending on how long I want them to continue to growth. In the picture I wanted you to see just how much they grow. Left to right as you look at the picture, Day one morning 10 a.m., that evening 7 p.m. already doubled, and this morning at 5 a.m. (the 7th) the volume is about triple and this is from 2 tablespoons of lentils and a 1/4 cup of garbanzo beans I will have right around 2 cups (that is a pin jar) when I refrigerate them this evening or tomorrow morning.
The nutrition of sprouted legumes is approximately the same as the cooked version and you have the option of cooking the sprouts, drying them, grinding them for dips etc. Your choice, but to have some lovely fresh tasting veggies, when you might not otherwise have access to something to fresh, even from your gardens is a win / win.
As Peter Burke notes in the podcast, this is done with out special lights, trays or setups. You can have a succession of just sprouts, as I'm showing, or micro greens as Peter notes, going for a daily fresh harvest.
If you are new to the idea of sprouting beans, seeds or nuts, there is a lot of info on The Sprout People site and also Peter Burke's site (link through the Urban Farm link at the top of this post).
How To Sprout
The basic is this, choose which WHOLE bean, seed, grain, or nut you wish to sprout. Do keep in mind just how much they swell the ratio is from 2:1 all the way up to 5:1, so if you are not careful you can easily wind up with a gallon of sprouts, all at once from as little as a cup of starting dried.
Place in glass jar - mason jars work really well. Sure you can buy sprouting set ups and there are lots of options out there but the good old glass jar works great. You need a perforated lid for ease of rinsing and also to let air in so the wet sprouts don't mold etc.
Rinse very well to remove any dust and check for debris. By their very nature legumes, seeds etc must be harvested dry and kept dry - they do not even rinse them at the farm or store because of the possibility of mold.
Then fill the jar so they are covered by at least twice as much water to bean ratio.
Set aside in a non-breezy area - counter, cupboard or pantry works, for 10-12 hours or overnight. In the morning rinse well and drain well put the cap back on and lay the jar on its side shaking to get the beans to spread out in the jar*.
Your choice as to whether to rinse every 12 hours or 3 times a day - either works fine. The point is to rinse well, drain well and return to resting position.
Taste at each rinse and observe for how long you want the shoots to grow and how you like the taste. Anywhere from 2 to 7 or 8 days - its your choice. The shoots will start to develop tiny hairs (the true roots) after several days - some folks like that, some do not.
Give one final rinse when you like where they are at, drain well, cap with top (not the rinsing top) and refrigerate. Use and enjoy.
* I learned the hard way yeas ago that if you leave the jar upright you get a huge MASS of tangled beans and shoots and if you have a husk from the seed - it is more difficult to rinse those away (if you choose - some folks like the extra fiber of the husk/hull). Once rinsed and refrigerated you can store however it suits you, in jars or a special container or ziplock bags. I use the mason jars for this also.
Sprouts are not just for people. Chickens and Ducks love them too. Lisa over at Fresh Eggs Daily sprouts the feed grains for her 'girls' and they love it. She also has a sprouter cap tip which is a great idea. When you see it you will realize there are many types of material that can be used as the "mesh" cover: some are wire, some people have used cheese cloth (not a good idea the shoots will start to penetrate it and break when you try to get them out, and then there is the cover I show in my pictures. These are OLD styles of plastic caps made specifically for sprouting in mason jars and I was lucky enough to be gifted these years ago by Deane's mom. You can still probably find them with a google search. I believe Jarden (Ball/Mason) has a special lid for the mason jars for sprouting.
If you, like I, have not sprouted beans etc. in a while, give it another go. Simple, easy, fresh and REAL FOOD FAST!
Find my books at Amazon, Changing Hands online Bookstore, Barnes & Noble and My publisher.
MY SCHEDULE:
January 8 -- private lecture (not at Farmers Market due to schedule conflict)
January 13 -- private lecture
January 15 -- Mesa Community Farmers Market - every Friday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m.
January 22 -- FREE SEED SHARE at the Mesa Community Farmers Market
February 20 -- Saturday Lecture at Mesa Urban Garden (MUG) 1:30 p.m. Details TBD)
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Catherine is available for consulting and as a speaker. Use the contact form on the website to inquire for your group or event. You can email direct to: catherine at herbs2u dot net
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
It must have been kismet that I decided to sprout some beans and lentils, inspired by a project I'm working on, that Greg Peterson at The Urban Farm, posted (a few days after I started my first batch) a podcast with a master sprouter, Peter Burke
Listen to this fun podcast, check out the Urban Farm website for sources and Peter's book and website for seed supplies.
One of the ongoing discussions about alternative methods of trying to grow more food in best and healthiest ways are around the idea of hydroponic, aquaponic, vertical gardens and other not-in-the-ground methods of producing food. One of the other parts of the discussions are about how much of the alternative growing methods focus on lettuces and not much else.
WELL . . . here is where sprouting beans and other legumes along with grains, seeds and nuts comes more completely into focus. Although there is not as much information on the nutrition of sprouted beans etc. vs. the dried and cooked, the "general" consensus is when harvested in the early stages of sprouting the sprouts have near identical nutrition to the dried bean, nut or seed. If you check at the site below, you will see 100 grams (3.5 ounces measured dry or wet) of lentils dried as 9 grams of protein and 7 grams of fiber. The sprouted ones show 9 grams of protein and the fiber is not listed but we can safely presume the fiber is equal or similar.
So spouting your legumes etc. is not just growing lettuce, it is growing a far more nutritious group of FRESH foods daily.
If you missed my post on 2016 The International Year of Pulses (legumes), here is the link where I have information on the dried via a great nutrition information site - called HealthAliciousNess.com - I gravitated right away to the name because I use a variant "herbalicious" for growing and using herbs in cooking. :-)
So, back to my sprouting. I used to sprout on a sort of regular basis many years ago, but it fell by the wayside when I fully realized I could grow everything OUTSIDE! So much of the literature and emphasis years ago on sprouting was all about fresh greens, indoors, in the cold winter.
So I drifted away from sprouting. I've come back full circle, in part because of the project (I will update with more info later - it is a cookbook), but also because of my cabin fever due to ALL OF THE RAIN we are having and the COLD weather which came with the year-end and new year. I do not do cold well, even desert cold, and it gets worse for me each year so I time my garden activities for the mid-day if I can.
AND I have lovely greens etc. growing now in the garden, but I wanted to plant more and it ain't happening while it is cold or this rainy.
FYI Sow seeds in the garden AFTER the rain otherwise you risk them being washed away - or start in your choice of germinating medium and location then transplant out when the sun if back out - that is for winter gardening - hot weather starting and transplanting is done differently.
This was also the first ever time I sprouted garbanzos and lentils. The Sprout People suggest tasting at all rinsing times to see when you like them best. Once you get to that taste preference, refrigerate and use. I really liked the nutty flavor of the garbanzos - different from the cooked bean or hummus, which I love. The lentils were very mild in flavor and tasty. The combination worked great with a beef stew I made and a mixed green garden salad (I have red romaine, curly escarole, arugula and red sails lettuces growing along with my red scallions, dressed in my Limequat vinaigrette dressing made with avocado oil and my dried Mexican Oregano.
I began another batch only this time with 2 tablespoons of the green lentils and 1/4 cup of the garbanzo beans to try and get a better balance. It sort of worked :-) The lentils just fluff more. This batch started January 5th is ready today (7th) or the 8th depending on how long I want them to continue to growth. In the picture I wanted you to see just how much they grow. Left to right as you look at the picture, Day one morning 10 a.m., that evening 7 p.m. already doubled, and this morning at 5 a.m. (the 7th) the volume is about triple and this is from 2 tablespoons of lentils and a 1/4 cup of garbanzo beans I will have right around 2 cups (that is a pin jar) when I refrigerate them this evening or tomorrow morning.
The nutrition of sprouted legumes is approximately the same as the cooked version and you have the option of cooking the sprouts, drying them, grinding them for dips etc. Your choice, but to have some lovely fresh tasting veggies, when you might not otherwise have access to something to fresh, even from your gardens is a win / win.
As Peter Burke notes in the podcast, this is done with out special lights, trays or setups. You can have a succession of just sprouts, as I'm showing, or micro greens as Peter notes, going for a daily fresh harvest.
If you are new to the idea of sprouting beans, seeds or nuts, there is a lot of info on The Sprout People site and also Peter Burke's site (link through the Urban Farm link at the top of this post).
How To Sprout
The basic is this, choose which WHOLE bean, seed, grain, or nut you wish to sprout. Do keep in mind just how much they swell the ratio is from 2:1 all the way up to 5:1, so if you are not careful you can easily wind up with a gallon of sprouts, all at once from as little as a cup of starting dried.
Place in glass jar - mason jars work really well. Sure you can buy sprouting set ups and there are lots of options out there but the good old glass jar works great. You need a perforated lid for ease of rinsing and also to let air in so the wet sprouts don't mold etc.
Rinse very well to remove any dust and check for debris. By their very nature legumes, seeds etc must be harvested dry and kept dry - they do not even rinse them at the farm or store because of the possibility of mold.
Then fill the jar so they are covered by at least twice as much water to bean ratio.
Set aside in a non-breezy area - counter, cupboard or pantry works, for 10-12 hours or overnight. In the morning rinse well and drain well put the cap back on and lay the jar on its side shaking to get the beans to spread out in the jar*.
Your choice as to whether to rinse every 12 hours or 3 times a day - either works fine. The point is to rinse well, drain well and return to resting position.
Taste at each rinse and observe for how long you want the shoots to grow and how you like the taste. Anywhere from 2 to 7 or 8 days - its your choice. The shoots will start to develop tiny hairs (the true roots) after several days - some folks like that, some do not.
Give one final rinse when you like where they are at, drain well, cap with top (not the rinsing top) and refrigerate. Use and enjoy.
* I learned the hard way yeas ago that if you leave the jar upright you get a huge MASS of tangled beans and shoots and if you have a husk from the seed - it is more difficult to rinse those away (if you choose - some folks like the extra fiber of the husk/hull). Once rinsed and refrigerated you can store however it suits you, in jars or a special container or ziplock bags. I use the mason jars for this also.
Sprouts are not just for people. Chickens and Ducks love them too. Lisa over at Fresh Eggs Daily sprouts the feed grains for her 'girls' and they love it. She also has a sprouter cap tip which is a great idea. When you see it you will realize there are many types of material that can be used as the "mesh" cover: some are wire, some people have used cheese cloth (not a good idea the shoots will start to penetrate it and break when you try to get them out, and then there is the cover I show in my pictures. These are OLD styles of plastic caps made specifically for sprouting in mason jars and I was lucky enough to be gifted these years ago by Deane's mom. You can still probably find them with a google search. I believe Jarden (Ball/Mason) has a special lid for the mason jars for sprouting.
If you, like I, have not sprouted beans etc. in a while, give it another go. Simple, easy, fresh and REAL FOOD FAST!
Find my books at Amazon, Changing Hands online Bookstore, Barnes & Noble and My publisher.
MY SCHEDULE:
January 8 -- private lecture (not at Farmers Market due to schedule conflict)
January 13 -- private lecture
January 15 -- Mesa Community Farmers Market - every Friday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m.
January 22 -- FREE SEED SHARE at the Mesa Community Farmers Market
February 20 -- Saturday Lecture at Mesa Urban Garden (MUG) 1:30 p.m. Details TBD)
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
Catherine is available for consulting and as a speaker. Use the contact form on the website to inquire for your group or event. You can email direct to: catherine at herbs2u dot net
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Thursday, January 07, 2016
The Great Caper Caper Update aka Growing Capers in the Desert
Dear Folks,
If you love capers, hopefully you have been following my updates on the Great Caper Caper Mystery aka how to successfully germinate seed and grow caper plants in the desert.
The prior post on the project is here.
Follow this blog by subscribing in the upper side bar.
Suzanne Vilardi and I started this about 3+ years ago and we have been successful in our goals. Growing a mother plant, harvesting seed, germinating seed and growing young plants.
Fast forward to this spring and summer when I planted some of Suzanne's first generation plants in various locations in my gardens to trial where they do best.
The good news is they did outstanding in full sun with minimal watering after they were established.
The bad news is this was THE year of the flea beetle which thrived in the soil because of our mild winter last year.
FYI - this year's cold winter should inhibit their activity in our gardens. Purchase neem sprays or you can try BT powder if you see activity in the spring and summer. STAY on it by doing daily bug inspection particularly around the broccoli family plants and greens like arugula (my arugula looked terrible until the invasion was over - then I pruned it back and new growth was delicious). These pest are active at night and early morning hours before the sun hits the plants.
Established plants weather the infestations okay, but a young plant can struggle or die.
In the picture I show the healthiest of the young plants just going to town in July, then being attacked in September and what the poor thing looked like on December 31, 2015. I have hopes of the plant making it through to spring - we will see and I will keep you posted. I did try both BT and Neem Spray, but the infestation was too quick to try and keep up with the beetles - and they fly so you have to be really good at catching them in the sprays. The BT is probably more helpful if you can target the plants when the weather is dry. I had less success because the pests came out when we were getting some monsoon rain and it just washed the BT off. almost immediately.
I was particularly excited about this planting area because 1) it is in FULL sun, and 2) during the summer, after it got established, it was ONLY watered once a week (deep watering for about 2 hours), except for the summer rains, which are always hit and miss. This area is also slightly recessed (the best way to set up gardens in the desert) so all moisture was held in the beds.
The Other Transplants and The Mother Plant
4 other plants did not make it past the first month or two after transplanting in April and it was just one of those things. Not enough sun or the soil stayed too wet. Capers are high drainage Mediterranean plants which love growing out of rock crevices in full hot sun.
The two other thriving transplants are in a more typical garden set up some folks may be using. An established area with over head trees BUT with a West and South facing orientation, which means they got a lot of sun during the day, but were aided by a lot of duff mulch on the soils surface. They are just under the drip line of the tree canopy. This entire area, including trees was sprinkler watered every 2 days for an hour during the summer Don't be mislead by the hour aspect sprinkler watering works but distributes the water over a larger area not focused only on the root system.
The Mother plant has been thriving for about 3+ years in a North West exposure, in the same duff/mulch conditions and has just loved it there.
On December 31, 2015, the Mother plant is now about 6 feet across and the two youngsters are 2 and 2.5 feet (the plant in between them is an artichoke). The center picture in the collage is one of the young plants in July at about 7 inches tall.
This past fall I again supplied Suzanne with fresh harvested seeds and she just reported some spouting activity.
We have a facebook group page on the project. It is a closed group you can ask to join. We check for trolls before accepting group participants, so you can comfortably participate on the group once you are accepted.
Check out the facebook page devoted to this.
I am so happy this project has succeeded. Perhaps one of the local farmers may choose to grow capers in the desert for commercial harvesting and it would be do in no small part to Suzanne's asking me about 4 years ago if I wanted to try and see if I could get a plant or two to grow - happily - here in the desert.
THANK YOU, Suzanne Vilardi (Vilardi Gardens on Facebook) for asking and trusting me to partner with you on this - it has been a fun experiment that succeeded.
We expect plants to be for sale in late spring through Vilardi Gardens.
GARDENING
Through the rain.
This series of storms is just dumping a LOT of water on the valley and it is both an opportunity and a benefit (hopefully no flooding). We are going to save at least a month's worth of watering bill because we turned off all of our auto watering features AND the property is totally bermed except for a small driveway, so we can capture up to 3 inches of standing water (and there was standing water in some of the gardens yesterday) before the berms over-flow.
SOW after the rains have finished otherwise you risk them being washed away.
PLANT before or during rains because it helps the soil seal well around the plants. If the plants are small cover with a poor man's cloche (gallon plastic jugs with the bottom cut off) to keep the tender growth from being pounded, but still taking advantage of the rain.
Seasonal Planting
Sowing and planting here in the desert is all about timing for best success. We are at the end of the winter sowing and planting and getting into the beginning of spring sowing and planting.
That means you can still plant sugar peas, carrots, beets, lettuces and similar short maturity vegetables, along with bare root strawberries and asparagus, but you can start tomatoes, peppers, basil, eggplant and similar warm weather lovers inside for transplanting out on February 1st (using the cloche for the last few frost night protection.
My gardening wall calendar provides month by month planting info, gardening tips and maintenance help and, while dated, can be used as a perpetual reference - with pretty pictures from my gardens :-)
Amazon
Barnes & Noble
Changing Hands Online Bookstore.
My Publisher
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
If you love capers, hopefully you have been following my updates on the Great Caper Caper Mystery aka how to successfully germinate seed and grow caper plants in the desert.
The prior post on the project is here.
Follow this blog by subscribing in the upper side bar.
Suzanne Vilardi and I started this about 3+ years ago and we have been successful in our goals. Growing a mother plant, harvesting seed, germinating seed and growing young plants.
Fast forward to this spring and summer when I planted some of Suzanne's first generation plants in various locations in my gardens to trial where they do best.
The good news is they did outstanding in full sun with minimal watering after they were established.
The bad news is this was THE year of the flea beetle which thrived in the soil because of our mild winter last year.
FYI - this year's cold winter should inhibit their activity in our gardens. Purchase neem sprays or you can try BT powder if you see activity in the spring and summer. STAY on it by doing daily bug inspection particularly around the broccoli family plants and greens like arugula (my arugula looked terrible until the invasion was over - then I pruned it back and new growth was delicious). These pest are active at night and early morning hours before the sun hits the plants.
Established plants weather the infestations okay, but a young plant can struggle or die.
 |
| July, September, December, 2015 |
I was particularly excited about this planting area because 1) it is in FULL sun, and 2) during the summer, after it got established, it was ONLY watered once a week (deep watering for about 2 hours), except for the summer rains, which are always hit and miss. This area is also slightly recessed (the best way to set up gardens in the desert) so all moisture was held in the beds.
The Other Transplants and The Mother Plant
4 other plants did not make it past the first month or two after transplanting in April and it was just one of those things. Not enough sun or the soil stayed too wet. Capers are high drainage Mediterranean plants which love growing out of rock crevices in full hot sun.
The two other thriving transplants are in a more typical garden set up some folks may be using. An established area with over head trees BUT with a West and South facing orientation, which means they got a lot of sun during the day, but were aided by a lot of duff mulch on the soils surface. They are just under the drip line of the tree canopy. This entire area, including trees was sprinkler watered every 2 days for an hour during the summer Don't be mislead by the hour aspect sprinkler watering works but distributes the water over a larger area not focused only on the root system.
The Mother plant has been thriving for about 3+ years in a North West exposure, in the same duff/mulch conditions and has just loved it there.
On December 31, 2015, the Mother plant is now about 6 feet across and the two youngsters are 2 and 2.5 feet (the plant in between them is an artichoke). The center picture in the collage is one of the young plants in July at about 7 inches tall.
This past fall I again supplied Suzanne with fresh harvested seeds and she just reported some spouting activity.
We have a facebook group page on the project. It is a closed group you can ask to join. We check for trolls before accepting group participants, so you can comfortably participate on the group once you are accepted.
Check out the facebook page devoted to this.
I am so happy this project has succeeded. Perhaps one of the local farmers may choose to grow capers in the desert for commercial harvesting and it would be do in no small part to Suzanne's asking me about 4 years ago if I wanted to try and see if I could get a plant or two to grow - happily - here in the desert.
THANK YOU, Suzanne Vilardi (Vilardi Gardens on Facebook) for asking and trusting me to partner with you on this - it has been a fun experiment that succeeded.
We expect plants to be for sale in late spring through Vilardi Gardens.
GARDENING
Through the rain.
This series of storms is just dumping a LOT of water on the valley and it is both an opportunity and a benefit (hopefully no flooding). We are going to save at least a month's worth of watering bill because we turned off all of our auto watering features AND the property is totally bermed except for a small driveway, so we can capture up to 3 inches of standing water (and there was standing water in some of the gardens yesterday) before the berms over-flow.
SOW after the rains have finished otherwise you risk them being washed away.
PLANT before or during rains because it helps the soil seal well around the plants. If the plants are small cover with a poor man's cloche (gallon plastic jugs with the bottom cut off) to keep the tender growth from being pounded, but still taking advantage of the rain.
Seasonal Planting
Sowing and planting here in the desert is all about timing for best success. We are at the end of the winter sowing and planting and getting into the beginning of spring sowing and planting.
That means you can still plant sugar peas, carrots, beets, lettuces and similar short maturity vegetables, along with bare root strawberries and asparagus, but you can start tomatoes, peppers, basil, eggplant and similar warm weather lovers inside for transplanting out on February 1st (using the cloche for the last few frost night protection.
My gardening wall calendar provides month by month planting info, gardening tips and maintenance help and, while dated, can be used as a perpetual reference - with pretty pictures from my gardens :-)
AmazonBarnes & Noble
Changing Hands Online Bookstore.
My Publisher
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Sunday, January 03, 2016
Around The Garden and Kitchen - End of 2015 - Beginning of 2016
Dear Folks,
The very end of 2015 and the beginning of 2016 I snapped some pictures of what I and the garden were doing.
I bought some organic celery because mine is just sprouting in the garden, so as I usually do I cut the bottom off of the bunch and placed it in water.
Out in the garden I snapped a picture of what this will look like planted in about 35 days (pictured one was planted November 25).
The celery was for the beef stew with herbs and my dried bay leaf from the garden for New Year's Day Dinner. Kitchen aromatherapy at its best with every things simmering in red wine and beef broth.
Stews are probably the easiest meals to prepare. You can find recipes all over the place but, truly, you just need some basic ingredients and steps. Not pictured was the cut of potato (I always leave the skin on), and the beef broth and red wine I used. Cook on the stove top (2 hours) or in a slow cooker (7 hours approx), with both needing to come to a boil and then simmer.
I sort of measure how much meat I have cooked up and cut celery, onion, carrots and potatoes to equal about 2-3 times the amount of meat. This is all a preference. Stew was always meant to be extended with vegetables, but can be more meat abundant if you choose.
Sear meat all over, quickly, in a bit of fat or oil of choice. Add all of the herbs of choice (I used rosemary, thyme and oregano, dried bay leaf and black peppercorns - no salt at this point), stir for a minute or two, add meat and enough liquid to cover. Add vegetables at one of two points, with the meat or half way through cooking if you prefer firmer vegetables (I like firm, but Deane likes very, very tender). Reserve about a half cup of cold broth or wine for making a slurry with corn starch or flour to add at the end to thicken. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer and cover. Take the cover off towards the end if cooking on the stove top for the last 30 minutes to reduce the liquid (BUT if keep some extra liquid handy to add if it is evaporating too quickly. When the meat is tender, add about 3-4 tablespoons of corn starch in a jar with the reserved cold liquid, cap and shake well and pour in while stirring. The stew will thicken right away. Salt to taste.
Most of the time when making stew or soup I shred some greens from the garden to stir in at the least moment or shred into the bowl before adding the stew or soup. It really perks up the flavor and texture.
I made some whole wheat penne pasta, shredded fresh arugula from the garden, and layered, into the bowl, the arugula, pasta and then the stew. A tasty and satisfying meal.
The freezes around the garden have had some impact. My nasturtiums take a hit when there are freezing temperatures, but the plants seldom die completely. In the middle of some damage one of the lovely flowers.
My Red Sails Lettuce and Celery seedlings just come up wherever and I let them as long as it is not an inconvenient location.
My white eggplant sustained quite a bit of frost damage and I won't touch the plant until late February/Early March to prune the damage. I'm hoping the plant will make it through and jump start production in the late spring, as opposed to mid to late summer.
My I'itoi Onions are coming along nicely. I harvested this past year only to split them (I used one for cooking), so now I have multiple plants and will do the same again this year, using probably only a couple of onions for cooking.
The Saffron I planted in October is coming along, and I'm hoping this new location will give me the opportunity to harvest enough for one meal!
I have several plants in the front gardens which have some dappled shade with a western exposure. This sweet pepper loves the spot.
Out front I also have two 2-year old pineapple plants and I have high hopes that I might get a fruit off one or both of them. The cold is getting to them, but keeping my fingers crossed.
One final photo. For a project, I'm sprouting garbanzo beans and green lentils. If you have not recently done any sprouting for use in salads, soups, stirfrys or stews, give them another look.
This is 36 hours after starting the overnight soak and 3 times a day rinse, in other words day 2. They both immediately doubled in volume from the 1/4 cup I started with.
Choose glass and any type of top to allow rinsing and air circulation. You can see lots of roots on the lentils on the right and the start of roots on some of the garbanzos on the left.
Once you have done the overnight soaking, keep the jars on their sides to allow the beans to spread out. I learned the hard way some years ago keeping the jars upright resulted in a tangled mess of roots and hulls.
. . .
I am going to do an update on the Caper Plants in one of the next blogs. It has been an interesting time with them in various parts of the garden.
I hope these images inspire you to try some new things. Gardening is always an experiment but one filled with great expectations and hope and many successes.
I am always happy to answer your email questions (and of course if you stop by at the Mesa Farmers Market on Fridays), but I also will come to your home for a garden consultation or be a speaker at an event your group or company plans. My contact page at my website. Or email me direct at:
catherine at herbs2u dot net
Have a great week!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
 |
| My Celery Re-Seeded Seedlings |
The very end of 2015 and the beginning of 2016 I snapped some pictures of what I and the garden were doing.I bought some organic celery because mine is just sprouting in the garden, so as I usually do I cut the bottom off of the bunch and placed it in water.
The celery was for the beef stew with herbs and my dried bay leaf from the garden for New Year's Day Dinner. Kitchen aromatherapy at its best with every things simmering in red wine and beef broth.
Stews are probably the easiest meals to prepare. You can find recipes all over the place but, truly, you just need some basic ingredients and steps. Not pictured was the cut of potato (I always leave the skin on), and the beef broth and red wine I used. Cook on the stove top (2 hours) or in a slow cooker (7 hours approx), with both needing to come to a boil and then simmer.I sort of measure how much meat I have cooked up and cut celery, onion, carrots and potatoes to equal about 2-3 times the amount of meat. This is all a preference. Stew was always meant to be extended with vegetables, but can be more meat abundant if you choose.
Sear meat all over, quickly, in a bit of fat or oil of choice. Add all of the herbs of choice (I used rosemary, thyme and oregano, dried bay leaf and black peppercorns - no salt at this point), stir for a minute or two, add meat and enough liquid to cover. Add vegetables at one of two points, with the meat or half way through cooking if you prefer firmer vegetables (I like firm, but Deane likes very, very tender). Reserve about a half cup of cold broth or wine for making a slurry with corn starch or flour to add at the end to thicken. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer and cover. Take the cover off towards the end if cooking on the stove top for the last 30 minutes to reduce the liquid (BUT if keep some extra liquid handy to add if it is evaporating too quickly. When the meat is tender, add about 3-4 tablespoons of corn starch in a jar with the reserved cold liquid, cap and shake well and pour in while stirring. The stew will thicken right away. Salt to taste.
Most of the time when making stew or soup I shred some greens from the garden to stir in at the least moment or shred into the bowl before adding the stew or soup. It really perks up the flavor and texture.
I made some whole wheat penne pasta, shredded fresh arugula from the garden, and layered, into the bowl, the arugula, pasta and then the stew. A tasty and satisfying meal.
The freezes around the garden have had some impact. My nasturtiums take a hit when there are freezing temperatures, but the plants seldom die completely. In the middle of some damage one of the lovely flowers.
 | |
| Red Sails with Celery Seedlings |
 |
| White Eggplant Frost Damage |
 |
| I'itoi Onions |
 |
| Saffron |
 |
| Sweet Peppers |
 |
| Pineapple - 2 years old |
One final photo. For a project, I'm sprouting garbanzo beans and green lentils. If you have not recently done any sprouting for use in salads, soups, stirfrys or stews, give them another look.This is 36 hours after starting the overnight soak and 3 times a day rinse, in other words day 2. They both immediately doubled in volume from the 1/4 cup I started with.
Choose glass and any type of top to allow rinsing and air circulation. You can see lots of roots on the lentils on the right and the start of roots on some of the garbanzos on the left.
Once you have done the overnight soaking, keep the jars on their sides to allow the beans to spread out. I learned the hard way some years ago keeping the jars upright resulted in a tangled mess of roots and hulls.
. . .
I am going to do an update on the Caper Plants in one of the next blogs. It has been an interesting time with them in various parts of the garden.
I hope these images inspire you to try some new things. Gardening is always an experiment but one filled with great expectations and hope and many successes.
I am always happy to answer your email questions (and of course if you stop by at the Mesa Farmers Market on Fridays), but I also will come to your home for a garden consultation or be a speaker at an event your group or company plans. My contact page at my website. Or email me direct at:
catherine at herbs2u dot net
Have a great week!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Friday, January 01, 2016
My New Cookbook is Released! And, My New Year's Day Tradition - Planting Potatoes.
Dear Folks,
My new cookbook is released through my publisher site in print and ebook-pdf from. It should be available on Amazon and Barnes & Noble in print form in about a month. I will keep you posted on that as it becomes available.
"A Victorian Style, Herb Inspired, 12 Course Dinner From The Herb Lady" is my re-creation of a sumptuous style meal with a focus on herbs for flavor and inspiration.
My Publisher's Site
This project actually began in the early 2000s when I created a full video cooking course on a 12 Course Style meal.
Over the last several months I realized I could create a short cookbook with pictures along with the recipes to give my readers some familiar and some unique ways with herbs.
The Victorian Dinner was meant to impress guests with the talents of the household's cooks. Considered excessive by today's standards, the multi-course menu is usually used now-a-days for special events. I do not suggest you attempt all of these in one dinner.. Use the ideas as a guide. Give the dishes your own twist and make it your creation.
. . .
Gardening:
Today I will be planting my saved potatoes for a new crop to harvest in late Spring..
Do you have a planting New Year's tradition? I find it helps me shake the cob-webs from my mind caused by all the hoop-a-la of the holidays and turn my focus back to planning and planting.
My Month-by-Month planting Calendar is the key to more success in your garden.
My Publisher
Through Changing Hands OnLine Bookstore
Through Amazon
Through Barnes & Noble
MY SURVEY - if you have not taken my survey yet - it is in the upper side bar. I would really enjoy knowing and using your preferences for posting in the coming year.
HAPPY New Year To You All!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
My new cookbook is released through my publisher site in print and ebook-pdf from. It should be available on Amazon and Barnes & Noble in print form in about a month. I will keep you posted on that as it becomes available.
"A Victorian Style, Herb Inspired, 12 Course Dinner From The Herb Lady" is my re-creation of a sumptuous style meal with a focus on herbs for flavor and inspiration.
My Publisher's Site
This project actually began in the early 2000s when I created a full video cooking course on a 12 Course Style meal.
Over the last several months I realized I could create a short cookbook with pictures along with the recipes to give my readers some familiar and some unique ways with herbs.
The Victorian Dinner was meant to impress guests with the talents of the household's cooks. Considered excessive by today's standards, the multi-course menu is usually used now-a-days for special events. I do not suggest you attempt all of these in one dinner.. Use the ideas as a guide. Give the dishes your own twist and make it your creation.
. . .
Gardening:
Today I will be planting my saved potatoes for a new crop to harvest in late Spring..
Do you have a planting New Year's tradition? I find it helps me shake the cob-webs from my mind caused by all the hoop-a-la of the holidays and turn my focus back to planning and planting.
My Month-by-Month planting Calendar is the key to more success in your garden.
Through Changing Hands OnLine Bookstore
Through Amazon
Through Barnes & Noble
MY SURVEY - if you have not taken my survey yet - it is in the upper side bar. I would really enjoy knowing and using your preferences for posting in the coming year.
HAPPY New Year To You All!
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
Tuesday, December 29, 2015
2016 International Year of Pulses (Legumes)
Dear Folks,
The United Nations has designated 2016 as the International Year of Pulses. You can read up a bit about the focus here.
Are you a lover of beans? Or, not so much?
I grew up with a general disdain for beans, mostly because of the canned varieties used by everyone from my mom (and mom was a good cook) to those who brought the ubiquitous baked beans to picnics etc.
When I met my dear Deane, who has never met a bean he did not love, I needed to TRY and find beans and other legumes I could love and lovingly prepare for him. My top favorites are Edamame (I LOVE the nutty not-beany taste of them), Lentils (fast cooking) and Garbonzos (mild and picks up the flavors of what they are cooked with) as hummus or part of stews. Oh and I do like peanuts and peanut butter :-)
I am going to do a series of posts on legumes. You probably already have read more than you need to on why they are so good for you and why you should eat more of them, but I will just list the high points:
--CHEAP protein!
--No cholesterol
--High Fiber
--Filling
--Plays well with other foods (even assuming the flavor identity of what they are cooked or prepared with)
--Naturally low in sodium and sugars
Let me start you off with several things.
1) I found a great site that lists many legumes in order of protein to calorie ratio. This site did a lot of the research work for me on nutrient content. Under each legume you can click on a more expanded chart of all the nutrition pulled from the Nutrient Data Base on the USDA - a site I use a lot to get as accurate a list of nutrition data on a food.
http://www.healthaliciousness.com/articles/beans-legumes-highest-protein.php
Nutritionist Daisy Whitbread runs this site and she lists soybeans as number 3 on the best protein to calorie ratio. Specifically this one is for Mature Soybeans.
So I went and pulled comparable data from the NDB on Edamame (green, immature) and the ratios are about the same
Edamame, shelled and boiled:
100 Grams (equal to 3.5 ounces weighed - about 5 ounces in a cup measure)
Calories: 121
Protein Grams 11.91 g
Fiber Grams 5.2 g
Protein Gram to Calorie 1 Gram of Protein per 10.15 Calories
Soybeans, Mature, and boiled (from healthaliciouness.com)
100 Grams
Calories: 173
Protein Grams: 16.6 g
Fiber Grams: 6 g
Protein Gram to Calorie = 1 Gram of Protein per a 10.4 Calories
The ratios are the same. With the mature soybeans you can go for more protein per portion, you also get more calories which can be a good thing if you need the energy. If you are looking to control calories, go with the Edamame.
2) While I'm discussing soybeans - a little history is in order.
Soy and soy products like Tofu, Tempeh (both on the chart) and Soy Sauce* have long been used in Asian cooking.
Before the growing interest in tofu and soy products when vegetarians and vegans wanted better protein sources starting back in the 60s and 70s and rapidly expanding in the last couple of decades, soybeans were grown primarily in the US for cattle feed.
Soybeans as food for people and as a soil nitrogen regenerative, became better known with the Great Depression. "Prior to the 1920 in the USA, the soybean was mainly a forage crop, a source of oil, meal (for feed) and industrial products, with very little used as food." -- wikipedia
In the past I have had some "ugh" reactions from folks who obviously grew up with canned soybeans when I've talked about the wonderful aspects of Edamame. Poor-folk food and cattle feed were their memories.
As many of you know, the GMO chemical companies have so taken over the soybean growing something like 93% of soy grown here in the US is GMO.
BUY ORGANIC! Whether for eating or sowing make sure the beans you purchase are organic.
*Soy Sauce (Tamari) actually has protein, but since it is only used sparingly in cooking the ratio amount is low. See the chart here.
Growing Soybeans In the Desert Garden
This is a fun crop to grow here in the desert. You can begin planting Soybeans in late March and successive plant every 2-4 weeks through the end of May and into early June. The successive planting works very well, because the beans ripen at the same time on each plant (for edamame), so you can harvest well into the middle of summer. Always leave some to dry completely on the plant for 1) re-sowing next year, and 2) to have some dried for storage and cooking later.
Saving beans for re-sowing ensures you have NON-GMO beans AND you are regionally adapting your beans to your garden with each subsequent sowing and saving.
As with all legumes you get a two'fer when growing them and letting some of them dry completely. Food and nitrogen fixing into your soil. The nitrogen recharge of the soil is when the plant completes its life cycle and the nodules on the roots stay in the soil.
Plant in a sunny, well-draining spot. Harvest for Edamame when the pods are plump, green and yield a little to pressure, about 50-65 days after sowing. Let them go to full dried brown if you want them dried.
Recipes:
When purchasing Edamame, go for the shelled as it is usually a better price break, unless you want the fun "popping" appetizer of the pods simmered in seasoned water or broth.
I have use the Edamame beans in everything from salads to hummus type dips. I've added them to my Stuffed Pumpkin recipe to boost the nutrient density for a Vegan Main Dish, to my Bean Chili, to Pasta Primavera, and all sorts of stews.
Tips:
--Any good size squash can be used in place of a pumpkin.
--Pasta dishes with vegetables (like the Primavera) are a breeze to make. Just add the vegetables to the pasta while boiling. Calculate the amount of time for the vegetables to cook and add at the point in the cooking of the pasta. Example: The edamame needs 5 minutes, shredded zucchini or similar needs 1-2 minutes etc. The pasta cooks for 9 minutes, so add the edamame after the pasta has cooked for 4 minutes, add the zucchini 3 minutes later. Drain all together, and add seasonings and sauces.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
The United Nations has designated 2016 as the International Year of Pulses. You can read up a bit about the focus here.
Are you a lover of beans? Or, not so much?
I grew up with a general disdain for beans, mostly because of the canned varieties used by everyone from my mom (and mom was a good cook) to those who brought the ubiquitous baked beans to picnics etc.
When I met my dear Deane, who has never met a bean he did not love, I needed to TRY and find beans and other legumes I could love and lovingly prepare for him. My top favorites are Edamame (I LOVE the nutty not-beany taste of them), Lentils (fast cooking) and Garbonzos (mild and picks up the flavors of what they are cooked with) as hummus or part of stews. Oh and I do like peanuts and peanut butter :-)
I am going to do a series of posts on legumes. You probably already have read more than you need to on why they are so good for you and why you should eat more of them, but I will just list the high points:
--CHEAP protein!
--No cholesterol
--High Fiber
--Filling
--Plays well with other foods (even assuming the flavor identity of what they are cooked or prepared with)
--Naturally low in sodium and sugars
Let me start you off with several things.
1) I found a great site that lists many legumes in order of protein to calorie ratio. This site did a lot of the research work for me on nutrient content. Under each legume you can click on a more expanded chart of all the nutrition pulled from the Nutrient Data Base on the USDA - a site I use a lot to get as accurate a list of nutrition data on a food.
http://www.healthaliciousness.com/articles/beans-legumes-highest-protein.php
Nutritionist Daisy Whitbread runs this site and she lists soybeans as number 3 on the best protein to calorie ratio. Specifically this one is for Mature Soybeans.
So I went and pulled comparable data from the NDB on Edamame (green, immature) and the ratios are about the same
Edamame, shelled and boiled:
100 Grams (equal to 3.5 ounces weighed - about 5 ounces in a cup measure)
Calories: 121
Protein Grams 11.91 g
Fiber Grams 5.2 g
Protein Gram to Calorie 1 Gram of Protein per 10.15 Calories
Soybeans, Mature, and boiled (from healthaliciouness.com)
100 Grams
Calories: 173
Protein Grams: 16.6 g
Fiber Grams: 6 g
Protein Gram to Calorie = 1 Gram of Protein per a 10.4 Calories
The ratios are the same. With the mature soybeans you can go for more protein per portion, you also get more calories which can be a good thing if you need the energy. If you are looking to control calories, go with the Edamame.
2) While I'm discussing soybeans - a little history is in order.
Soy and soy products like Tofu, Tempeh (both on the chart) and Soy Sauce* have long been used in Asian cooking.
Before the growing interest in tofu and soy products when vegetarians and vegans wanted better protein sources starting back in the 60s and 70s and rapidly expanding in the last couple of decades, soybeans were grown primarily in the US for cattle feed.
Soybeans as food for people and as a soil nitrogen regenerative, became better known with the Great Depression. "Prior to the 1920 in the USA, the soybean was mainly a forage crop, a source of oil, meal (for feed) and industrial products, with very little used as food." -- wikipedia
In the past I have had some "ugh" reactions from folks who obviously grew up with canned soybeans when I've talked about the wonderful aspects of Edamame. Poor-folk food and cattle feed were their memories.
As many of you know, the GMO chemical companies have so taken over the soybean growing something like 93% of soy grown here in the US is GMO.
BUY ORGANIC! Whether for eating or sowing make sure the beans you purchase are organic.
*Soy Sauce (Tamari) actually has protein, but since it is only used sparingly in cooking the ratio amount is low. See the chart here.
Growing Soybeans In the Desert Garden
This is a fun crop to grow here in the desert. You can begin planting Soybeans in late March and successive plant every 2-4 weeks through the end of May and into early June. The successive planting works very well, because the beans ripen at the same time on each plant (for edamame), so you can harvest well into the middle of summer. Always leave some to dry completely on the plant for 1) re-sowing next year, and 2) to have some dried for storage and cooking later.
Saving beans for re-sowing ensures you have NON-GMO beans AND you are regionally adapting your beans to your garden with each subsequent sowing and saving.
As with all legumes you get a two'fer when growing them and letting some of them dry completely. Food and nitrogen fixing into your soil. The nitrogen recharge of the soil is when the plant completes its life cycle and the nodules on the roots stay in the soil.
Plant in a sunny, well-draining spot. Harvest for Edamame when the pods are plump, green and yield a little to pressure, about 50-65 days after sowing. Let them go to full dried brown if you want them dried.
Recipes:
When purchasing Edamame, go for the shelled as it is usually a better price break, unless you want the fun "popping" appetizer of the pods simmered in seasoned water or broth.
I have use the Edamame beans in everything from salads to hummus type dips. I've added them to my Stuffed Pumpkin recipe to boost the nutrient density for a Vegan Main Dish, to my Bean Chili, to Pasta Primavera, and all sorts of stews.
Tips:
--Any good size squash can be used in place of a pumpkin.
--Pasta dishes with vegetables (like the Primavera) are a breeze to make. Just add the vegetables to the pasta while boiling. Calculate the amount of time for the vegetables to cook and add at the point in the cooking of the pasta. Example: The edamame needs 5 minutes, shredded zucchini or similar needs 1-2 minutes etc. The pasta cooks for 9 minutes, so add the edamame after the pasta has cooked for 4 minutes, add the zucchini 3 minutes later. Drain all together, and add seasonings and sauces.
-- Catherine, The Herb Lady
If you enjoyed this post, subscribe in the upper side bar link, to get all my posts!
Disclaimer: Clicking on links on this blog may earn me a small commission if you purchase something. Your price does not change.
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